If leasing is not available, would you cancel your Gravity order?

If leasing is not available, would you cancel your Gravity order?

  • Yes

    Votes: 41 65.1%
  • No

    Votes: 22 34.9%

  • Total voters
    63
It's gonna be awhile before rust is an issue with your Gravity.

I thought it was interesting to see, in the David Lickfold interview by Wheel Bearings (
) that the drivetrain subframe is steel. You can see it around the 2-4 minute mark - the parts painted black, I assume.

I was under the mistaken impression that the higher end electric vehicles like Lucid and Tesla have all aluminum frames. I wonder if the steel parts of the subframe are well hidden behind panels, or if road salt spray or chunks could potentially spray in from the wheel wells and eat tiny holes into the steel over time (long-term ownership type of time, rather than a lease period), for those of us in colder climates.

I would assume that they would have considered it, considering all of their other considerations, but living in the California in the winter is a lot easier on a car than living in the northeast in winter, in terms of salt spray and such.

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I thought it was interesting to see, in the David Lickfold interview by Wheel Bearings (
) that the drivetrain subframe is steel. You can see it around the 2-4 minute mark - the parts painted black, I assume.

I was under the mistaken impression that the higher end electric vehicles like Lucid and Tesla have all aluminum frames. I wonder if the steel parts of the subframe are well hidden behind panels, or if road salt spray or chunks could potentially spray in from the wheel wells and eat tiny holes into the steel over time (long-term ownership type of time, rather than a lease period), for those of us in colder climates.

I would assume that they would have considered it, considering all of their other considerations, but living in the California in the winter is a lot easier on a car than living in the northeast in winter, in terms of salt spray and such.

View attachment 28313
I once asked about keeping the open areas underneath an Air clean after a member posted pictures.

See pictures in this thread.
 
What happened to your battery? The Gravity also uses Panasonic 2170 cells like the Model 3 (10% more energy density and maybe optimized for top plate cooling?). I don't see any reason to believe they'll be more reliable though as far as I've seen the original Model 3 packs are very reliable.
My pack had higher degradation than most for the miles- off over 15% from new in a bit over 80k miles. I did a good job keeping the battery below 80% unless road tripping, but I also did well over 100 supercharger stops where I’d come in on fumes, low single digit battery remaining, sometimes without preconditioning. Charging from that low is a good way to maximize charge speed but it may well have impacted the battery life. Couple that with a few cars who’s batteries “fell off the cliff” shortly outside of warranty, going from close to where I was in degradation to nothing over the course of a day or two, and I decided it was time to move on.

The Gravity has some inherent advantages that I expect will double battery lifespan, if not more. Given it’s range it will be easy to charge to the ideal 50% and cycle between 50% and 20% most of the time, where in in my Model 3 towards the end of life 50% SOC would have given just over 100 miles of real-world freeway range, too close for comfort if something came up. Combined with the fact that the Model 3 needed 60% more cycles to cover a given number of miles and I’d expect the Gravity’s battery to conservatively last twice the miles of an early Model 3 LR before other factors like chemistry improvements or better thermal management are considered. As you say the Model 3 is likely a 150k+ mile proposition, so doubling that gets towards “life of the car” numbers, or near enough that an informed second owner is probably not going to sweat it too much. Is my thinking…
 
My pack had higher degradation than most for the miles- off over 15% from new in a bit over 80k miles. I did a good job keeping the battery below 80% unless road tripping, but I also did well over 100 supercharger stops where I’d come in on fumes, low single digit battery remaining, sometimes without preconditioning. Charging from that low is a good way to maximize charge speed but it may well have impacted the battery life. Couple that with a few cars who’s batteries “fell off the cliff” shortly outside of warranty, going from close to where I was in degradation to nothing over the course of a day or two, and I decided it was time to move on.

The Gravity has some inherent advantages that I expect will double battery lifespan, if not more. Given it’s range it will be easy to charge to the ideal 50% and cycle between 50% and 20% most of the time, where in in my Model 3 towards the end of life 50% SOC would have given just over 100 miles of real-world freeway range, too close for comfort if something came up. Combined with the fact that the Model 3 needed 60% more cycles to cover a given number of miles and I’d expect the Gravity’s battery to conservatively last twice the miles of an early Model 3 LR before other factors like chemistry improvements or better thermal management are considered. As you say the Model 3 is likely a 150k+ mile proposition, so doubling that gets towards “life of the car” numbers, or near enough that an informed second owner is probably not going to sweat it too much. Is my thinking…
I think mine is down 15% at 90k miles (271mi full charge), I thought that was normal. I thought most of the degradation in the batteries is actually calendar aging. I see reports of cars with 300k+ miles with similar degradation.
I have started charging to 55% for the last year. There are so many superchargers I’m not worried about an unexpected trip (and it hasn’t happened.)
 
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