OTHER Winter Range Mega thread.

If the temp is in the teens/20s and you are diving @80mph, your range (100% SoC) on the GT will be below 300 miles. Thus, @75% SoC, 260 miles is to be expected. It will likely be less if you plan to do significant uphill driving. As I suggested earlier, I'd plan for 250 mile range (80% SoC to 5%).

Ya thats a crazy loss, now I see why it's not more advertised. I've always been an advocate of replacing the City/Highway MPH from ICE cars to Summer/Winter Range for EV's
 
Ya thats a crazy loss, now I see why it's not more advertised. I've always been an advocate of replacing the City/Highway MPH from ICE cars to Summer/Winter Range for EV's
Well, the fact that faster speed and low ambient temperature (and the use of heater) affect the range is to be expected. That said, if you research the topic online, it appears that some cars (Lucid and Tesla in particular) deviate more from their EPA rating when driven at higher speeds (say 75+ mph).

There are several threads on this topic.
 
Well, the fact that faster speed and low ambient temperature (and the use of heater) affect the range is to be expected. That said, if you research the topic online, it appears that some cars (Lucid and Tesla in particular) deviate more from their EPA rating when driven at higher speeds (say 75+ mph).

There are several threads on this topic.
i Found this which says Lucid is worse than an old Tesla

 
i Found this which says Lucid is worse than an old Tesla

You can read this thread when you have time:

 
I’m was driving 75 - 82 for almost all of the drive. I’m happy with those results, and wonder what the impacts would have been if the weather had been quite a bit colder. I might get to learn that on my return trip.

I may post again with more details of the results of trickle charging (110v outlet on the mobile charger) in very cold weather, and temps in the high teens for much of the return trip.
Follow-up:

My return home ended up being in much warmer temperatures for most of the trip, as high as 41F, as low as 31F, mostly around 37 - 38F. I averaged about 3.66 m/kWh. I won't write much about the return trip because the conditions were not unusually cold.

One thing that may be interesting: I mentioned earlier that I was plugged in over about a 48 hour period via the mobile charger on a 110v outlet, equating to about 1 kWh of charge. The battery started from about 40% SoC when I arrived and plugged-in, and the temperatures were fluctuating over day and night between the mid 30s F, and as low as 15 F.

I had figured that keeping the car plugged in at such a low rate of charge might keep the battery warm enough to stay out of the "power limited due to cold battery" state, and to eventually get the car back up to nearly 90% SoC (e.g. from 40% to 85 - 90% over 48 hours). In reality, it got me to about 71%. I'm not sure if much of the 1kWh going to the car was being spent keeping the battery a little warmer, or if being as cold as 15F is rate limiting even to a 1 kWh source of charge. I'd be interested to understand how the car is intended / programmed to behave in such conditions. Is this expected or unexpected behavior.

As with the first leg of the trip, the car got much worse efficiency for the first 10 - 15 minutes of my travel with the battery relatively cold, and then improved greatly (presumably, as the battery warmed and/or as the outside temperature went up).

Soup to nuts for a 2025 AGT with 19" stock tires / wheels, with panels installed:

  • In temperatures between 10 and 25'ish F, I observed worst case efficiencies of about 2 kWh with 3 occupants at 75-82 mph, altitudes between about 4000 and 5200 ft.
    • I observed average efficiency for a ~210 mile car trip at those same speeds to be about 3.14 m/kWh
    • The car climate control was set to 65F, seat warmers were mostly off, steering wheel heat was off, and stereo was playing a low volume
  • In temperatures between 31 and 41F on the same trip done in reverse, the car averaged around 3.66 m/kWh at the same speeds and internal climate / stereo conditions.
    • There was also one less occupant in the car (2, instead of 3).
  • Cold temperatures (15 was about the lowest observed) seemed to effectuate charge rate limiting, when charging even with only a 1 kWh source, by approximately 33%, over a 48 hour period.
    • No idea if a 1 kWh source has a substantial effect on keeping the battery warmer, in such conditions
    • No idea if the rate limiting was a matter of the source energy being used for warming the battery, or was based on some other factor.
 
Follow-up:

My return home ended up being in much warmer temperatures for most of the trip, as high as 41F, as low as 31F, mostly around 37 - 38F. I averaged about 3.66 m/kWh. I won't write much about the return trip because the conditions were not unusually cold.

One thing that may be interesting: I mentioned earlier that I was plugged in over about a 48 hour period via the mobile charger on a 110v outlet, equating to about 1 kWh of charge. The battery started from about 40% SoC when I arrived and plugged-in, and the temperatures were fluctuating over day and night between the mid 30s F, and as low as 15 F.

I had figured that keeping the car plugged in at such a low rate of charge might keep the battery warm enough to stay out of the "power limited due to cold battery" state, and to eventually get the car back up to nearly 90% SoC (e.g. from 40% to 85 - 90% over 48 hours). In reality, it got me to about 71%. I'm not sure if much of the 1kWh going to the car was being spent keeping the battery a little warmer, or if being as cold as 15F is rate limiting even to a 1 kWh source of charge. I'd be interested to understand how the car is intended / programmed to behave in such conditions. Is this expected or unexpected behavior.

As with the first leg of the trip, the car got much worse efficiency for the first 10 - 15 minutes of my travel with the battery relatively cold, and then improved greatly (presumably, as the battery warmed and/or as the outside temperature went up).

Soup to nuts for a 2025 AGT with 19" stock tires / wheels, with panels installed:

  • In temperatures between 10 and 25'ish F, I observed worst case efficiencies of about 2 kWh with 3 occupants at 75-82 mph, altitudes between about 4000 and 5200 ft.
    • I observed average efficiency for a ~210 mile car trip at those same speeds to be about 3.14 m/kWh
    • The car climate control was set to 65F, seat warmers were mostly off, steering wheel heat was off, and stereo was playing a low volume
  • In temperatures between 31 and 41F on the same trip done in reverse, the car averaged around 3.66 m/kWh at the same speeds and internal climate / stereo conditions.
    • There was also one less occupant in the car (2, instead of 3).
  • Cold temperatures (15 was about the lowest observed) seemed to effectuate charge rate limiting, when charging even with only a 1 kWh source, by approximately 33%, over a 48 hour period.
    • No idea if a 1 kWh source has a substantial effect on keeping the battery warmer, in such conditions
    • No idea if the rate limiting was a matter of the source energy being used for warming the battery, or was based on some other factor.
What about elevation change on your trip? Differences between the outbound vs the inbound in elevation changes?
 
Just drove my Pure for most of the weekend in about -2c degree weather, and a snowstorm on the way back (so about 45mph on the highway for the return trip), on Pirelli EV XL winter tires, from a full charge with a stated range of 642km. Drove about 420km with estimated 19km left before getting back home, so let's say 440km total. So a drop of about 2/3 of the estimated total range.
 
Just drove my Pure for most of the weekend in about -2c degree weather, and a snowstorm on the way back (so about 45mph on the highway for the return trip), on Pirelli EV XL winter tires, from a full charge with a stated range of 642km. Drove about 420km with estimated 19km left before getting back home, so let's say 440km total. So a drop of about 2/3 of the estimated total range.
Yup, sounds about right! I'd think your trip's efficiency is mostly compromised by the temperature. I grew up in Toronto and lived in Ottawa for a couple of winters. I know what it is like! 😉
 
Yup, sounds about right! I'd think your trip's efficiency is mostly compromised by the temperature. I grew up in Toronto and lived in Ottawa for a couple of winters. I know what it is like! 😉
True, though I suspect the air draft from the tops of the windows that aren't sealing properly are causing me to lose more heat (and thus use the heating more) to compensate. While 2/3rds is a pretty big drop, I don't mind it so much since the starting range is so high.
 
True, though I suspect the air draft from the tops of the windows that aren't sealing properly are causing me to lose more heat (and thus use the heating more) to compensate. While 2/3rds is a pretty big drop, I don't mind it so much since the starting range is so high.
It is a big drop....if my memory serves me right, you are not in winter yet! Wait till end Jan/early Feb!

Let us know how your Lucid performs when winter actually comes.
 
It is a big drop....if my memory serves me right, you are not in winter yet! Wait till end Jan/early Feb!

Let us know how your Lucid performs when winter actually comes.
I'd say it's already here.

On a related note, I forgot how interesting driving a RWD car over black ice and snow could be, even with good winter tires. Saw lots of cars (mostly SUVs) in the ditch this weekend. Thankfully the traction control on the Lucid is excellent and the extra weight is welcome. Now, the blaring of failed sensors that get covered in snow, that's another story...

2024-12-02_13-45.webp
 
True, though I suspect the air draft from the tops of the windows that aren't sealing properly are causing me to lose more heat (and thus use the heating more) to compensate. While 2/3rds is a pretty big drop, I don't mind it so much since the starting range is so high.
I'm experiencing the same "drafts" here in NH, now that it's got cold out there. Have you reached out to Lucid about it? Wondering if there's a known fix for it. There was a suggestion in another thread it was in that the window seal's on the 2025 have changed.
 
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What about elevation change on your trip? Differences between the outbound vs the inbound in elevation changes?
It was a round trip. The net change in elevation was very small (200 - 300 ft higher on one end, than the other). There’s a steep ascent and descent in the middle, going both ways.

You think that would make the difference in the overall mileage / efficiency?
 
It was a round trip. The net change in elevation was very small (200 - 300 ft higher on one end, than the other). There’s a steep ascent and descent in the middle, going both ways.

You think that would make the difference in the overall mileage / efficiency?
Your efficiency will definitely drop when you go up hill. You will recover "SOME" of the energy going downhill. Overall, you WILL still use more energy than if you were on a flat commute over the same distance.


One key aspect of maximizing the efficiency is slower acceleration and deceleration and maintenance of a constant speed. Ideally, you want to maintain a constant speed as much as possible (hence HA/DDP etc.). But if you are traversing mountain roads or driving along a river bank with many turns and curves, constant speed is hard to maintain. Thus, your efficiency will be lower (than driving on a straight, flat freeway w/ HA/DDP).

One "gadget" I found very useful on my Rivian R1S is the "real-time" (actually, a rolling 15-20min monitor) of your driving efficiency (in mi/kWh). I was told such a gauge also exist on the Tesla. With such a gauge, you can see in "real-time" how your driving impact the efficiency.
 
Your efficiency will definitely drop when you go up hill. You will recover "SOME" of the energy going downhill. Overall, you WILL still use more energy than if you were on a flat commute over the same distance.


One key aspect of maximizing the efficiency is slower acceleration and deceleration and maintenance of a constant speed. Ideally, you want to maintain a constant speed as much as possible (hence HA/DDP etc.). But if you are traversing mountain roads or driving along a river bank with many turns and curves, constant speed is hard to maintain. Thus, your efficiency will be lower (than driving on a straight, flat freeway w/ HA/DDP).

One "gadget" I found very useful on my Rivian R1S is the "real-time" (actually, a rolling 15-20min monitor) of your driving efficiency (in mi/kWh). I was told such a gauge also exist on the Tesla. With such a gauge, you can see in "real-time" how your driving impact the efficiency.
For the trip I mentioned, HA was on almost all the time, including the steep up and downhill parts.

Outside of road construction or areas where the lane paint lines are weird, I tend to use HA on road trips for almost all of the trip. I completed a 3100+ mile roadtrip a couple of months ago and thought HA performed very well.
 
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