Chiming in on this thread because I have a peripheral question about coasting and neutral.
First, from my 40+ years of ICE driving experience, I have always been a fan of utilizing neutral for improved gas mileage and (theoretically) reduced wear on parts of the ICE drivetrain. Started with manual cars (remember those, ha ha) where going into neutral and releasing the clutch allowed for near frictionless coasting. Then I experimented with utilizing neutral on automatics. Works just as well, and with a little rev matching when going back into D, seems to not cause any damage to transmissions. I have never had any transmission issues on any of my (20+ ?) vehicles over the years. Seems BMW now offers this feature as "behind the scenes" activity when drivers use ECO mode . . . where the car will decouple the drivetrain (significantly reducing driveline losses) when going downhill. This to me makes WAY more sense for improving gas mileage than say, "smart" alternators, which result in an ~ $700 cost for battery replacement (because a tech has to connect a laptop and do "reset" procedures to teach the alternator that a new battery has been installed). I digress - but what a joke.
So . . . I have yet to use neutral (regularly) on my Air Touring . . . and, like HMP and many others, I have FULLY embraced one pedal driving. It's awesome (in either regen mode) and I expect to keep my Lucid for 10 years or more, and expect to never replace brake pads. That said, I do have issues with getting mild oxidation on the rotors. And I dislike the severity of deceleration required to get enough braking to actually clean the rotors, even when in low regen mode. So I recently found a nice 1/4 mile hill, and by shifting into neutral on a rolling start at the top of the hill, and using the brakes gently the whole way down the hill, was able to clean the brake rotors nicely. Worked perfectly.
This leads to the question of understanding whether operating the car in neutral on longer hills at highway speeds is harmful to the car ? More importantly, would disengaging (going from D to N) at 75 mph, or reengaging (N to D) at 65 or 70 mph (say at the bottom of a hill) be harmful to the car ?
I have no physics or mech engineering background to back this up, but I do feel like "feathering" the go pedal to try to maintain the narrow band between acceleration and regen, is not only kind of a PITA, but also intuitively seems to be less efficient than allowing the car to coast in neutral as far as it can before reengaging D (like a soap box derby car). I would only do this on specific grades where the vehicle maintains speed (+/- 5-10 mph), and engaging the friction brakes is unnecessary.
Would love to hear any thoughts (admittedly, more on the potential vehicle harm, than on the debate around efficiency) !