Gravity Bugs / Issues

You may be the only current customer with two Gravities; I wonder if that could be a factor, since it looks like you have reported multiple occurrences where it was effecting both cars at the same time. I don’t know if Lucid does any sort of cloud syncing of profiles like Tesla does, or if you have both Gravities on the same Lucid account or not, but it’s at least possible that somewhere something is connected and it’s getting confused and thinking the two cars are the same but somehow playing different music sources simultaneously. Not that this helpful, just an old software engineer musing… 😊

It also happens in our Air if it's on the road while it's happening in one of the Gravities. And, yes, they are all on the same account.

I have detailed the symptoms to senior Lucid personnel who are referring the matter to their engineering team. I'll post what, if anything, I find out.
 
New tip from our mobile tech:

In an earlier episode in which the car went dead after I entered it, one of the symptoms was the windows freezing in the down position. When I finally got the car working again, the front passenger window would go up and then immediately drop down about 1/3 of the way. This happened repeatedly until multiple attempts finally got the window to stay up.

The speculation here on the forum was that it was a window seal that needed adjustment. Our mobile tech came today and found no issue with the seal. He said that sometimes a software malfunction will cause a window to lose the programming for identifying the closed position. In that case, once the software is rebooted, the affected window should be fully lowered, then fully raised, and then hold the window switch in the "up" position for three seconds. This will reset the switch to recognize the closed position.

I think I unwittingly did this while driving down the road. In exasperation, I finally just held the switch in the "up" position for a while, hoping that would somehow keep the window up. And it did.
 
New tip from our mobile tech:

In an earlier episode in which the car went dead after I entered it, one of the symptoms was the windows freezing in the down position. When I finally got the car working again, the front passenger window would go up and then immediately drop down about 1/3 of the way. This happened repeatedly until multiple attempts finally got the window to stay up.

The speculation here on the forum was that it was a window seal that needed adjustment. Our mobile tech came today and found no issue with the seal. He said that sometimes a software malfunction will cause a window to lose the programming for identifying the closed position. In that case, once the software is rebooted, the affected window should be fully lowered, then fully raised, and then hold the window switch in the "up" position for three seconds. This will reset the switch to recognize the closed position.

I think I unwittingly did this while driving down the road. In exasperation, I finally just held the switch in the "up" position for a while, hoping that would somehow keep the window up. And it did.
That sounds similar to what my mobile tech told me for solving an issue.
The exception was he said to also stand on one foot and close my eyes while facing south.
:)

Seriously, I hope this helps owners.
 
New tip from our mobile tech:

In an earlier episode in which the car went dead after I entered it, one of the symptoms was the windows freezing in the down position. When I finally got the car working again, the front passenger window would go up and then immediately drop down about 1/3 of the way. This happened repeatedly until multiple attempts finally got the window to stay up.

The speculation here on the forum was that it was a window seal that needed adjustment. Our mobile tech came today and found no issue with the seal. He said that sometimes a software malfunction will cause a window to lose the programming for identifying the closed position. In that case, once the software is rebooted, the affected window should be fully lowered, then fully raised, and then hold the window switch in the "up" position for three seconds. This will reset the switch to recognize the closed position.

I think I unwittingly did this while driving down the road. In exasperation, I finally just held the switch in the "up" position for a while, hoping that would somehow keep the window up. And it did.
That’s a helpful update. It’s really confirming my thoughts that the problem isn’t the software design so much as it is the failure of the software to know what the hardware is doing, it’s almost like there’s some global confirmation that keeps getting dropped once you issue any command to the car, it seems to affect almost all systems.
 
New tip from our mobile tech:

In an earlier episode in which the car went dead after I entered it, one of the symptoms was the windows freezing in the down position. When I finally got the car working again, the front passenger window would go up and then immediately drop down about 1/3 of the way. This happened repeatedly until multiple attempts finally got the window to stay up.

The speculation here on the forum was that it was a window seal that needed adjustment. Our mobile tech came today and found no issue with the seal. He said that sometimes a software malfunction will cause a window to lose the programming for identifying the closed position. In that case, once the software is rebooted, the affected window should be fully lowered, then fully raised, and then hold the window switch in the "up" position for three seconds. This will reset the switch to recognize the closed position.

I think I unwittingly did this while driving down the road. In exasperation, I finally just held the switch in the "up" position for a while, hoping that would somehow keep the window up. And it did.
I will say, be careful with this tip. It’s the tip I got when I was having issues with my driver side rear window. I tried the tip and, shortly thereafter, my window went crazy and ended up just staying down and requiring service to be pulled up manually. You can read about that in the Service thread…

I don’t think it was this holding of the button that caused it. My sense is the part was failing beforehand. But, my point is, this trick won’t always work and may cause an issue. Regardless, a new car should not require this…I guess it goes on the workaround list! 😀
 
I will say, be careful with this tip. It’s the tip I got when I was having issues with my driver side rear window. I tried the tip and, shortly thereafter, my window went crazy and ended up just staying down and requiring service to be pulled up manually. You can read about that in the Service thread…

I don’t think it was this holding of the button that caused it. My sense is the part was failing beforehand. But, my point is, this trick won’t always work and may cause an issue. Regardless, a new car should not require this…I guess it goes on the workaround list! 😀
The Gravity “Workaround List” is now getting bigger than the “Abnormal Procedures Checklist” for a Boeing 747.
 
We got in our newer Gravity around noon, with the doors unlocking as we approached with the key fob. We were again confronted by a total screen blackout, although the A/C came on. We waited just over three minutes (I was tracking the time) and finally opened the doors in disgust to get into another car, when suddenly the screens started to come up.

We've been living with variations on this theme for four months now, been through several OTA updates, and the cars still won't power up reliably. Given how many other software issues pop up downstream of getting underway in the car, I think it's going to be a very, very long slog before the Gravity becomes a reliable conveyance.
 
We got in our newer Gravity around noon, with the doors unlocking as we approached with the key fob. We were again confronted by a total screen blackout, although the A/C came on. We waited just over three minutes (I was tracking the time) and finally opened the doors in disgust to get into another car, when suddenly the screens started to come up.

We've been living with variations on this theme for four months now, been through several OTA updates, and the cars still won't power up reliably. Given how many other software issues pop up downstream of getting underway in the car, I think it's going to be a very, very long slog before the Gravity becomes a reliable conveyance.
and that is just not acceptable in anyway for 100-140k vehicles. or any vehicle for that matter. My car is still in the service center getting the FDU replaced. they did the 3.3.5 update and the key fob updates as well. I guess ill get it back friday or saturday. If it continues to have issues, I am going to have them take it back and hold it until its fixed.
 
My turn to write my bad story, unfortunately….

Pickup my white Gravity GT today in NJ, and went to a highway upstate drive…

After around 40 minutes with no issues, I went to a takeover, so I accelerated from 55 tp 70, then I heard a “clunk noise.” The car went to turtle mode and started a lot of warnings… (car gets to 50mph tops) I stopped at a gas station and called the sc… tried soft and hard restart, nothing worked, then we stepped out, turned off, and the sc agent did a reboot from their end. We went back to the car, errors were gone, and we were back on the road…

After another 20 minutes, I tried a very similar overtake and again… turtle mode… called sc again, and the car was offline from the grid… tried all the restarts and nothing, so I decided to drive back to NJ SC, on turtle mode with blinkers on…

So I stopped to eat something, turned off the car, and came back after 15 minutes. The error was gone, and the car drove normally again. I drove without trying the overtake or any aggressive acceleration, so the car went okay to the SC.

Guys, there were super nice and told me they will check everything and give me feedback tomorrow.

I’ll update here once I hear from them, in case it happens to anyone here.
 
My turn to write my bad story, unfortunately….

Pickup my white Gravity GT today in NJ, and went to a highway upstate drive…

After around 40 minutes with no issues, I went to a takeover, so I accelerated from 55 tp 70, then I heard a “clunk noise.” The car went to turtle mode and started a lot of warnings… (car gets to 50mph tops) I stopped at a gas station and called the sc… tried soft and hard restart, nothing worked, then we stepped out, turned off, and the sc agent did a reboot from their end. We went back to the car, errors were gone, and we were back on the road…

After another 20 minutes, I tried a very similar overtake and again… turtle mode… called sc again, and the car was offline from the grid… tried all the restarts and nothing, so I decided to drive back to NJ SC, on turtle mode with blinkers on…

So I stopped to eat something, turned off the car, and came back after 15 minutes. The error was gone, and the car drove normally again. I drove without trying the overtake or any aggressive acceleration, so the car went okay to the SC.

Guys, there were super nice and told me they will check everything and give me feedback tomorrow.

I’ll update here once I hear from them, in case it happens to anyone here.
This is the kind of thing savagegeese was referring to in his final conclusion...
 
My turn to write my bad story, unfortunately….

Pickup my white Gravity GT today in NJ, and went to a highway upstate drive…

After around 40 minutes with no issues, I went to a takeover, so I accelerated from 55 tp 70, then I heard a “clunk noise.” The car went to turtle mode and started a lot of warnings… (car gets to 50mph tops) I stopped at a gas station and called the sc… tried soft and hard restart, nothing worked, then we stepped out, turned off, and the sc agent did a reboot from their end. We went back to the car, errors were gone, and we were back on the road…

After another 20 minutes, I tried a very similar overtake and again… turtle mode… called sc again, and the car was offline from the grid… tried all the restarts and nothing, so I decided to drive back to NJ SC, on turtle mode with blinkers on…

So I stopped to eat something, turned off the car, and came back after 15 minutes. The error was gone, and the car drove normally again. I drove without trying the overtake or any aggressive acceleration, so the car went okay to the SC.

Guys, there were super nice and told me they will check everything and give me feedback tomorrow.

I’ll update here once I hear from them, in case it happens to anyone here.
Sounds like you had a Drive Unit issue. Mine did the same but never recovered. Had to drive 50 miles on the freeway at 50 mph lol. not fun.
 
Sounds like you had a Drive Unit issue. Mine did the same but never recovered. Had to drive 50 miles on the freeway at 50 mph lol. not fun.
But you had it replaced and then was fine? Need to do a roadtrip from ny to florida with a lot of cargo, in 10 days. Really concerned if this gets fixed soon enough.
 
But you had it replaced and then was fine? Need to do a roadtrip from ny to florida with a lot of cargo, in 10 days. Really concerned if this gets fixed soon enough.

The same thing happened with our car: speed limited to 50mph; reset by Lucid cleared things up; car then performed normally.

However, two days later after checking the logs, Lucid asked me to take the car to the Roswell Service Center near Atlanta for a rear drive unit replacement. We were on a road trip to Atlanta, had to get back home to Florida in a rental car, and did not get our Gravity back for three and a half weeks.

My advice is DO NOT GET ON A ROAD TRIP until this matter is resolved.

So sorry to hear you're going through this.
 
The same thing happened with our car: speed limited to 50mph; reset by Lucid cleared things up; car then performed normally.

However, two days later after checking the logs, Lucid asked me to take the car to the Roswell Service Center near Atlanta for a rear drive unit replacement. We were on a road trip to Atlanta, had to get back home to Florida in a rental car, and did not get our Gravity back for three and a half weeks.

My advice is DO NOT GET ON A ROAD TRIP until this matter is resolved.

So sorry to hear you're going through this.
Ohhh wow, yes thanks for the advice… so no one with this issue had it fix yet?? That’s concerning
 
Interesting update/info for this with “double frunk” opening issue.

Mobile tech told me it’s actually a software issue. There are two parts to frunk opening:

1) Latch opening and then
2) struts push forward and up to open

Software issue is struts pushing too early so they hit the latch before it’s open. Then, on second try, latch is already open so struts just push forward and up. Probably not describing it well…

BUT, that explains why mine has been fixed twice but not fixed. And explains why we see a “flex” on hood while struts push against latch on first attempt.

Hopefully, they will fix soon.
Mine has been fixes twice as well and still not fixed. I actually tries it at the SC before leaving and it was working fine. A day later, i started having the same issue.
What’s really strange is that the frunk will open from the first time if i use my phone.
 
My turn to write my bad story, unfortunately….

Pickup my white Gravity GT today in NJ, and went to a highway upstate drive…

After around 40 minutes with no issues, I went to a takeover, so I accelerated from 55 tp 70, then I heard a “clunk noise.” The car went to turtle mode and started a lot of warnings… (car gets to 50mph tops) I stopped at a gas station and called the sc… tried soft and hard restart, nothing worked, then we stepped out, turned off, and the sc agent did a reboot from their end. We went back to the car, errors were gone, and we were back on the road…

After another 20 minutes, I tried a very similar overtake and again… turtle mode… called sc again, and the car was offline from the grid… tried all the restarts and nothing, so I decided to drive back to NJ SC, on turtle mode with blinkers on…

So I stopped to eat something, turned off the car, and came back after 15 minutes. The error was gone, and the car drove normally again. I drove without trying the overtake or any aggressive acceleration, so the car went okay to the SC.

Guys, there were super nice and told me they will check everything and give me feedback tomorrow.

I’ll update here once I hear from them, in case it happens to anyone here.
This is messed up, the drive unit issues are starting to pile up. I REALLY hate to say this and jump on any kind of bandwagon but there HAS to be some component flaw that’s causing this and we’re just hearing about it more the more deliveries there are, it’s all over Reddit also, so Lucid I think needs to stop everything they’re doing until they identify what this problem is, and if that means freezing deliveries or halting production, so be it. A brand new car dying on the highway or getting turtle mode, even if it’s yet another stupid software issue, cannot continue to happen much longer, it destroys confidence and reeks of either sloppiness or inability to solve a problem. The service centers can’t keep up with this many failures anyway, not to mention the astronomical warranty costs to the company of just replacing piles of drive units and towing vehicles. They stopped deliveries for other issues. I’m lucky, my car has been really great aside from software BS and Lucid’s service people are truly outstanding and want to help, so I’ll keep my fingers crossed, but I’m genuinely disappointed to hear of more of these issues. Let’s solve this problem so we don’t have to waste so much time on this nonsense and can get back to discussing all the truly great things about the car, of which there are many!
 
This is messed up, the drive unit issues are starting to pile up. I REALLY hate to say this and jump on any kind of bandwagon but there HAS to be some component flaw that’s causing this and we’re just hearing about it more the more deliveries there are, it’s all over Reddit also, so Lucid I think needs to stop everything they’re doing until they identify what this problem is, and if that means freezing deliveries or halting production, so be it. A brand new car dying on the highway or getting turtle mode, even if it’s yet another stupid software issue, cannot continue to happen much longer, it destroys confidence and reeks of either sloppiness or inability to solve a problem. The service centers can’t keep up with this many failures anyway, not to mention the astronomical warranty costs to the company of just replacing piles of drive units and towing vehicles. They stopped deliveries for other issues. I’m lucky, my car has been really great aside from software BS and Lucid’s service people are truly outstanding and want to help, so I’ll keep my fingers crossed, but I’m genuinely disappointed to hear of more of these issues. Let’s solve this problem so we don’t have to waste so much time on this nonsense and can get back to discussing all the truly great things about the car, of which there are many!
It’s the Air all over again but now with drive units instead of HV battery issues and this time it seems things are failing in quicker succession.

Now I’m worried that we’re all sitting on a ticking time bomb and just waiting until the car decides our number is up.
 
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