Gravity accessories slowly appearing

I'd be fine with it sitting directly over the wireless chargers, giving me a more reliable experience and locking the phone in place. The wireless chargers in my Gravity work intermittently. That said, I'm not experiencing many of the other bugs I've seen people grappling with, so I'm feeling fortunate overall.
Agreed. One of the big advantages w/ Magsafe and magnets is that it aligns the charging coils when you place the phone, and adds that "lip" to the charging mat so that the touch surface is a lot closer. With how big the camera bumps are on modern phones, this latter part does make a real difference; the standard Qi chargers in most cars (including the Gravity) are far enough from the phone's charging coils that a lot of energy gets dissipated as heat, so it gets the phone hot w/o charging it and causes battery degradation on top of the inefficiency.
 
Agreed. One of the big advantages w/ Magsafe and magnets is that it aligns the charging coils when you place the phone, and adds that "lip" to the charging mat so that the touch surface is a lot closer. With how big the camera bumps are on modern phones, this latter part does make a real difference; the standard Qi chargers in most cars (including the Gravity) are far enough from the phone's charging coils that a lot of energy gets dissipated as heat, so it gets the phone hot w/o charging it and causes battery degradation on top of the inefficiency.
All great…until they replace MagSafe with some other type of magnet to make the phone thinner or something.

I have no issue with the heat or wireless charging in the Gravity and the surface is slippery enough it doesn’t move when charging.

I have the MagSafe thing from twraps in the R1S as that wireless charge pad was unusable. But I always hated taking up one of the USB ports for it.
 
All great…until they replace MagSafe with some other type of magnet to make the phone thinner or something.

I have no issue with the heat or wireless charging in the Gravity and the surface is slippery enough it doesn’t move when charging.

I have the MagSafe thing from twraps in the R1S as that wireless charge pad was unusable. But I always hated taking up one of the USB ports for it.
Agreed, that's why I think it's best set up as an accessory instead of built into the cars.
 
Need the crossbars for roof. If I can’t take snowboard and skis come November, my wife and kids will really laugh at me…
Just saw this… cheers!
 

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Just saw this… cheers!
You rock @JeffSter! Thank you. I’ve been looking daily but kind of gave up. Thanks.

Shipping is, of course, an outrageous $75. Yes, they’re heavy, but I can get 200lbs worth of dumbbells from Amazon with no shipping cost…
 
You rock @JeffSter! Thank you. I’ve been looking daily but kind of gave up. Thanks.

Shipping is, of course, an outrageous $75. Yes, they’re heavy, but I can get 200lbs worth of dumbbells from Amazon with no shipping cost…
I know you received the crossbars. Did you mount them yet? Any issues with the blind hole and nut that can spin when removing?
 
I know you received the crossbars. Did you mount them yet? Any issues with the blind hole and nut that can spin when removing?
Sadly, I’ve not had a chance to mount them but intend to do so tonight and will report back!
 
I'm just hoping some Gravity accessories start showing up in the referral store so that I can use my points!
 
I had been laying my iphone horizontally across the charging wireless charging pad .. then realized, no, they go vertical.

So - I'm wonder if anyone has 3D printed any Bento Boxes for the Gravity? By sliding the tray forward (and thereby losing the cup holders), I can see the phones much better (while they're charging). If there's a Bento Box with a reasonably sized cup holder to pop down there, further away from the screen .. I think that'd be a great :)
 

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I put the crossbars on. Will post pic tomorrow. It’s actually really annoying. You have to put three screws on each side - so 12 total. Our R1S has a really easy snap in and lock system. Makes it really easy to take off and put on quickly. Posted main page from instructions to show folks. And you have to use an ikea- like torx tool - so screwing it in takes some time. Not difficult, but time consuming and just much more complex than needed.

I don’t see these coming off any time soon as it’s just a major PITA to do. Seems like a lazy design since other companies have better systems Lucid could’ve copied.
 

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I put the crossbars on. Will post pic tomorrow. It’s actually really annoying. You have to put three screws on each side - so 12 total. Our R1S has a really easy snap in and lock system. Makes it really easy to take off and put on quickly. Posted main page from instructions to show folks. And you have to use an ikea- like torx tool - so screwing it in takes some time. Not difficult, but time consuming and just much more complex than needed.

I don’t see these coming off any time soon as it’s just a major PITA to do. Seems like a lazy design since other companies have better systems Lucid could’ve copied.
Without seeing it in person, I'm not totally following the design, but what does the note at the end mean about not needing to adjust the 2 outer screws on each leg when removing/reinstalling on the same car? Probably optimistic, but does this mean only the middle screw, so 4 total, need to be removed when taking them off and on?
 
If you had an Air and got the RangeXChange cable, all you need is the NACS adapter and you can use Gravity to charge any other EV. This works out great for me because I get free charging at work so then I come home and charge my wife’s Volvo V60 PHEV for free also!
 

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If you had an Air and got the RangeXChange cable, all you need is the NACS adapter and you can use Gravity to charge any other EV. This works out great for me because I get free charging at work so then I come home and charge my wife’s Volvo V60 PHEV for free also!
Like the momma bird / baby bird relationship. Love it.
 
I put the crossbars on. Will post pic tomorrow. It’s actually really annoying. You have to put three screws on each side - so 12 total. Our R1S has a really easy snap in and lock system. Makes it really easy to take off and put on quickly. Posted main page from instructions to show folks. And you have to use an ikea- like torx tool - so screwing it in takes some time. Not difficult, but time consuming and just much more complex than needed.

I don’t see these coming off any time soon as it’s just a major PITA to do. Seems like a lazy design since other companies have better systems Lucid could’ve copied.

Any concerns with potential damage to the glass roof from teh bar mount? Like in a Tesla if you torque it too much you might crack something? Or are they safely out of hands way?
 
Any concerns with potential damage to the glass roof from teh bar mount? Like in a Tesla if you torque it too much you might crack something? Or are they safely out of hands way?
Okay, so here are my thoughts. With some photos. No particular order. You will need a plastic tool (like you’d use for trim) to pull off the caps.

1) Fit and Finish on installation - crap. Sorry, no sugar coating. You’ll see in the photos. They put a very cheap foam at bottom of crossbar piece that comes in contact with roof, but there are large gaps (>.25”) in various areas where it secures to roof. So, hoping that area is totally waterproof (I’m sure it is). But it really makes it look cheap when you come up to it. I am going to have service take a look as I can’t imagine it’s really supposed to “fit” this way. Rivian is FAR FAR better and cleaner and easier to install. Yes, I actually tried the install backwards as well, in case the manual was wrong - it’s not. They just look like this. And yes, it looks dirty even though I just cleaned the insert areas as leaves are falling fast. I’d LOVE for someone else to tell me what I do wrong so they look better, so PLEASE post here if you get them.

2) Center bolt - as seen in pics, when you remove caps, there’s a black bolt. You need to remove that bolt to make space for the central (main) bolt for crossbars. No mention of that in instructions and no tool provided. That’s an H4 bolt - so make sure you have something to take it off. And then save the four bolts you unscrew with the caps.

3) Torque - the one thing they got right is they included in the weird torx tool a way to see whether it’s torqued appropriately. Hard to explain, but it’s helpful.

4) Tool - the provided tool is fine, but I advise using the long end for initial install of screws and only the short end with torque piece to finish it off. They talk about keeping it loose enough adjust with fingers at first - that’s not possible. Two turns with a finger and you need the tool. Otherwise, it will take forever to screw in given the crossbars get in the way. Better yet, use a ratchet if you have one - I did not for this type of divot-like head.

5) Plastic end caps - they’re fine. They clip off for install and back on. But overall, contribute to the JV look of the crossbars.

I finished the look and install mainly to be able to post to forum and help others. I came very close to not finishing first bar once I saw the look. But I don’t have tow package, so this is the only way I can take a family and friends on day trips to ski/snowboard.

The look? You decide. I got lazy taking pics in end. My personal feeling is “meh”, but they’re not supposed to look pretty, so as long as they work, I guess it’s fine.

Disappointing overall.

Next up, highway driving. If they make noise while up there, that will be the last straw. We’ll just “have” to take the R1S for skiing and leave the Gravity. Again, champagne problem.
 

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Any concerns with potential damage to the glass roof from teh bar mount? Like in a Tesla if you torque it too much you might crack something? Or are they safely out of hands way?
You could definitely mess up the glass if you over torque it or just installing it without a blanket or towel to protect roof.

The actual piece that holds the screws and everything together DOES fit into the depression for the crossbars and that’s where the bulk of pressure would be, so that seems to be good. But the outer edges of the cross bar touch the glass and Lucid has provided the cheapest foam I’ve seen to help protect potential metal to glass issues. Seriously, it’s just the type of foam used for small DIY projects, not to protect a $100,000+ car. But, I digress.

At least the bars are “stealth” and they didn’t force me to buy platinum crossbars… 🤣

Definitely waiting for one of my kids to notice a crack in the roof that starts to grow…
 
You could definitely mess up the glass if you over torque it or just installing it without a blanket or towel to protect roof.

The actual piece that holds the screws and everything together DOES fit into the depression for the crossbars and that’s where the bulk of pressure would be, so that seems to be good. But the outer edges of the cross bar touch the glass and Lucid has provided the cheapest foam I’ve seen to help protect potential metal to glass issues. Seriously, it’s just the type of foam used for small DIY projects, not to protect a $100,000+ car. But, I digress.

At least the bars are “stealth” and they didn’t force me to buy platinum crossbars… 🤣

Definitely waiting for one of my kids to notice a crack in the roof that starts to grow…
could you please measure from the centerpoints between the racks? seems like a really narrow gap between the two, could be problematic for some winter gravity sports boots and such.
 
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