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Another simple subwoofer install with pics

If it's already 2 Ohms then you're doing the right thing.
I ran both without power and there was a very small amount going to the external sub, but it was negligible and could barely hear it.
I'm not an electrical engineer so my answers are probably extra wrong.
 
Okay! Great Success! I dropped a small Focal Bomba BP20 into my sub-trunk. I used the alligator clips, a plug in to the cigarette lighter for power, and it magical. The only thing I struggled with was removing the upholstery clips - I'm going to have to replace most of them :rolleyes:.

It's small enough that it doesn't touch the deck lid and WOW. I've got the gain cranked all the way to zero and it has fundamentally changed how much I enjoy driving my car. I'm in a lease, so even better - I don't fundamentally modify the car and can easily remove it when it is time to turn it back in. It's incredible and I love it. Thanks for the post, the instructions, and the suggestion!
 
Thanks for the post, just hooked my sub up, used 4ohm old bazooka tube, signal coming from hi/lo level adapter, with power accessory adapter to port in trunk, no fiddling with the power and ground wires needed. I have the basic 9 speaker, but it booms now!! bazooka have high efficiency using little watts.

One thing I noticed, since I tapped into the rear sub, that sub.....is small, 6inch being generous? needs to be enclosed to get a good kick.
 
Does anyone who has done this mod have pictures of how the wires are run from the alligator clips to the amp/sub? I'm trying to figure out of I'm supposed to use Hi or Lo input to the sub, also the Hi input has 6 wires, where do each of them go? Sorry, not an experienced audio installer so could use some basic help :) sorry for the stupid questions!
 
robertlo99 said:
Does anyone who has done this mod have pictures of how the wires are run from the alligator clips to the amp/sub? I'm trying to figure out of I'm supposed to use Hi or Lo input to the sub, also the Hi input has 6 wires, where do each of them go? Sorry, not an experienced audio installer so could use some basic help :) sorry for the stupid questions!
Click to expand...
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
 
Tâm said:
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Tâm said:
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
Click to expand...
Here's a picture of the inputs. It comes with a harness, so I just wanted to know what wires to strip to connect to the Lucid speaker outputs.
1752082362430.webp
 
That looks like a proprietary connection. What brand and model number? If you have the manual for it, it probably has the pinout. If you post a picture of that, we can probably figure it out.
 
johnse said:
That looks like a proprietary connection. What brand and model number? If you have the manual for it, it probably has the pinout. If you post a picture of that, we can probably figure it out.
Click to expand...

Rockville RW10CA... I haven't purchased it yet, I might pull the trigger and see it's feasible to install myself, if not, will return it. It's a cheap sub to augment the sound, it's a cheap alternative to the Kicker since I don't want to spend a lot of money on this mod, just want to get a little better sound. I'll post pics when i get it.
 
I have the amp and parts in hand now. Here's the picture of thr wire and diagram, I think it makes sense to me. But I have a question about power, it says to use 8ga wire, can I just run it without a fuse inline to the 12v aux plug?
1000071797.webp
1000071794.webp
 
That's fine if you like the smell of fried insulation.
 
After reading through this thread I was inspired to revisit my 'old car audio' crate in my attic where I found a Class D fosgate amp and a down firing, shallow mount sub. I'll have to find some time to test these as they might be my next mod.
 
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