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Pixel 10 Pro won't charge from Console USB ports

My iPhone has charged reliably since taking delivery from the console USB-C ports
 
DeaneG said:
Thanks for posting, that's sort of what I was expecting. My pixel 10 charges maybe one time out of ten tries, or less. But the USB ports on the backs of the front seats (100 watt) charge it without an issue.

I'll ask my neighbor if I can try to charge his iPhone to verify that my console is "working as designed". I'll be looking to a Pixel 11, or in the future a more mainstream vehicle, to fix it. It's the only glitch we've had with our Gravity.
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The USBc ports on the back of the front seats are 45W each. The USBc ports in the center area between the front seats are 100W each. If you have the seven seat model then there are two more 45W USBc port near the cup holder area on the outside of each seat.
 
ke2 said:
The USBc ports on the back of the front seats are 45W each. The USBc ports in the center area between the front seats are 100W each. If you have the seven seat model then there are two more 45W USBc port near the cup holder area on the outside of each seat.
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Right, I had the specs reversed.
hwy17er said:
My iPhone has charged reliably since taking delivery from the console USB-C ports
Click to expand...
I think the issue may be limited to the Pixel 10 Pro.
 
I have noticed that Google Pixel phones have lots of quirks that other phones don't have. My Pixel 8 Pro PAAK was having issues when others didn't. I was able to improve it with DevOptions settings changes. I looked up this specific issue and it seems that Pixel 10 has USB/Qi2 issues. I wouldn't be surprised that this is limited to Pixel devices. I bet the phone is getting conflicting connection with the car trying to connect to Android Auto or Charge and Pixel for whatever reason isn't processing that information properly. It's probably why the back seat USB charging works without issue since it's not trying to communicate back to AA.

Not sure if it this will work but have you tried going to Dev Settings and force changing the USB connection to Charge instead of File Transfer. This would hopefully force the connection as a charge and not try to communicate.

A few Gemini Responses when searching for keep wireless but disable USB AA.
Method 1: Forget the USB Car Connection
If you've previously connected your phone to the car via USB, the system remembers it and prioritizes it.
  1. Disconnect your phone from the car.
  2. Open your phone's Settings.
  3. Tap Connected devices > Connection preferences > Android Auto.
  4. Tap Previously connected cars.
  5. Tap the three dots (menu) in the top-right corner and select Forget all cars.
  6. Reconnect wirelessly.

Method 2: Use a Charge-Only Cable or Adapter
Most car USB ports transmit both data and power. If you plug into a data port, the phone will always try to launch wired Android Auto. [1, 2]
  • Use a 12V Charger: Plug a dedicated car charger into your car's cigarette lighter socket. This gives you power without triggering any data connections.
  • Use a "Charge-Only" Cable: You can buy a specialized Data Blocker Cable or USB On/Off Switch Cable. These prevent data communication while passing power.

Method 3: Revoke Auto-Launch Settings
To stop Android Auto from forcefully opening on your screen when charging:
  1. Open the Android Auto app settings on your phone.
  2. Scroll down to Start Android Auto automatically.
  3. Change it to If used on the last drive or toggle off Start Android Auto while locked.
 
MacBain00 said:
...I bet the phone is getting conflicting connection with the car trying to connect to Android Auto or Charge and Pixel for whatever reason isn't processing that information properly. It's probably why the back seat USB charging works without issue since it's not trying to communicate back to AA.
...
Method 2: Use a Charge-Only Cable or Adapter
Most car USB ports transmit both data and power. If you plug into a data port, the phone will always try to launch wired Android Auto. [1, 2]
  • Use a 12V Charger: Plug a dedicated car charger into your car's cigarette lighter socket. This gives you power without triggering any data connections.
  • Use a "Charge-Only" Cable: You can buy a specialized Data Blocker Cable or USB On/Off Switch Cable. These prevent data communication while passing power.
Click to expand...
Interesting thought - I'll try a data blocker tomorrow.
I have noticed that the Pixel 10 Pro sometimes gets into a USB-PD renegotiation loop with some high-power Anker AC chargers, so ??
 
I've always charged mine (iphone) on USB-C cable, as wireless charging 1) is slow 2) makes the phone hot
You may also try to install Android 17 (if you haven't done so already) on your Pixel 10, as they recently got pushed to Pixel devices as part of June update, I read that there are some optimizations and new features regarding charging and power delivery logic built in it.
 
deemz said:
...You may also try to install Android 17 (if you haven't done so already) on your Pixel 10, as they recently got pushed to Pixel devices as part of June update, I read that there are some optimizations and new features regarding charging and power delivery logic built in it.
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Unfortunately Android 17 didn't help.
 
A data-only cable didn't help either. Phone charging starts, and negotiates up to a power level of 18-20 watts. After a few seconds, USB power is cut and the cycle often starts over after a second or so of rest. Once in a while the charging negotiation loop doesn't restart, and from then on there is no USB power until the phone is unplugged and re-plugged.
 
my wireless charger never worked well, even after the console replacement a few months ago, I think my case doesn't gel with it
no issues with the cord in the console
 
Have the pixel 10 fold and have no issues with the USB c. Charges quickly and well. The wireless charging is almost useless as it just heats the phone. Wish the had put a fan in the center console area.
 
DeaneG said:
I haven't had any problems with the USB ports on the back of the front seats, other than reaching them to plug in a cable while driving :)
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I finally got around to trying the USB ports on the back of the front seats. You are correct, my Pixel 10 had no issues with them. Thank you for that pointer.
 
misko said:
I finally got around to trying the USB ports on the back of the front seats. You are correct, my Pixel 10 had no issues with them. Thank you for that pointer.
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Does the Pixel 10 have a problem with higher power ports? The console ports are 100W while the back of the front seats are 45W.
 
Saksak said:
Does the Pixel 10 have a problem with higher power ports? The console ports are 100W while the back of the front seats are 45W.
Click to expand...
It works fine with my 100W Anker wall charger. It just appears to be some negotiation issue between the car and the phone specific to the Pixel 10 series, although someone above indicated no issues with the Pixel 10 fold. So maybe it is just the Pixel 10 Pro and Pixel 10 Pro XL. I only own the Pro XL.
 
Saksak said:
Does the Pixel 10 have a problem with higher power ports? The console ports are 100W while the back of the front seats are 45W.
Click to expand...
It's fine on a 140 watt charger. Pic below. My wife's Pixel 10 Pro (not XL) has the same problem with our Gravity's console USB ports.
Pixel 10 XL charging.webp
 
Charging my iPhone when plugged into a port works well.

Attempting to charge wirelessly on the touch pad (same place as card key activation) doesn’t not!! My iPhone has to be in exactly the right spot before charging works , then it only charges for a while. However it can’t be relied upon as the slightest movement knocks it from the “ charging sweet spot “ while driving
 
Britishlion said:
Charging my iPhone when plugged into a port works well.
Attempting to charge wirelessly on the touch pad (same place as card key activation) doesn’t not!! My iPhone has to be in exactly the right spot before charging works , then it only charges for a while. However it can’t be relied upon as the slightest movement knocks it from the “ charging sweet spot “ while driving
Click to expand...
Now that Magsafe has an open standard in Qi2, we can expect more and more carmakers to move to magnetic snap-in pads for phone charging.
 
deemz said:
I've always charged mine (iphone) on USB-C cable, as wireless charging 1) is slow 2) makes the phone hot
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Yes, I had the same issue.

And with CarPlay on and wireless charging, I noticed sometimes I’d exit the car after an hour-long drive with the battery even lower than when I started!

The idea of wireless charging is great and convenient. But the reality is underwhelming.

PS - I’ve experienced similar problems in other cars with wireless charging too. So I don’t think this is a Lucid-specific issue.
 
DeaneG said:
A data-only cable didn't help either. Phone charging starts, and negotiates up to a power level of 18-20 watts. After a few seconds, USB power is cut and the cycle often starts over after a second or so of rest. Once in a while the charging negotiation loop doesn't restart, and from then on there is no USB power until the phone is unplugged and re-plugged.
Click to expand...
Did you mean to say charge only cable?
 
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