Wheel nut torque

ColoradoKent

Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2022
Messages
44
Cars
70 Challenger
DE Number
182
I have tried to find the recommended wheel nut torque in the manual and have been unsuccessful. Anyone out there know what it is? Had a flat tire this morning and changed it alongside the road. Guessed at 110 lb ft for the torque.
 
I think you are correct. 150 NM is what I read in the manual, which is 110 ft pounds.

Sorry about the flat. Hope it was just a nail in the middle of the thread.....
 
Thanks for the torque info. One thing that surprised me was I only received the small icon on the dash showing one tire was zero psi, no blaring whoom whoom as when a seat belt is not fastened. I drove about 1/2 mile with it before I noticed the icon. I might add, it drove fine with a right rear flat. Don't know why Lucid doesn't recommend run flats when there is no spare supplied. I know the ride would be harsher but with 49psi pressures, it's hardly great now. By the way, there was a screw in the tire, guess you could say, I got screwed, but, then again, maybe not. Luckily, we replaced the original 19s with HRE 20s and have 4 spare tires on hand.
 
Three days into my new to me 23 touring, so take my advice carefully. Screw in the middle thread is repairable with a good vulcanized patch.

I am also looking for a second wheel tire set, for winter. Have 21 OEM. Tell me about your 20s. I read the 19s are a bit hard to spec due to the massive Lucid front brakes. Years ago, there were NO winter 20inch 40 profile tires. That has changed. When I lived FT in the mtns, I ran a Minus 1 setup for winter, narrower patch.
 
The 19s that came with the car were 245/45r19 with a diameter of 27.7". I replaced them with 245/40r20. They have the same diameter. I didn't want to screw up the odometer setting. I don't know how Lucid calibrates the odometer with different tire diameters. I kept Pirelli EV tires for now. I bought HRE P204 wheels but they are pretty expensive to use for an extra set of wheels. There has to be suitable cheaper wheels available. I have not brought the "screwed" tire in for repairs as yet. I'll find out tomorrow if it's a keeper.
 
Great information, thanks. Seems 27.7 and 27.9 are the oem circumferences. If your new tire circumference is the same as oem, the speedo will be unchanged. I would bet the diagnostic centers can simply program in the circumference into the cpu in a second. Maybe even the tire width is entered for range calculations.

This forum has been great at teaching BEV owners aspects of cars they never thought about or needed to with high powered ICE cars. Like tire selection. I chuckle when I see owners here think that 19, 20, and 21 inch wheel tire packages are each one inch bigger circumference than each other. I am so old I remember doing tire circumference calcs by hand. The online sites are amazing.
 
There are a bunch of websites that will show you specs by brand of tire for each size. Tire Rack has this info somewhere but others have it too, or you can look up the mfgr. websites. an example:
conversion tool for speed correction

I ordered my car with 19" AS but they were too slippery for summer driving. Picked up a set of factory 21" and noticed my indicated speed is about 2mph less than what the neighborhood radar signs indicate. Also my TPMS warning light is on...pretty easy to ignore it, but I should probably get a spare ... I'm living on the edge.
And I think it's time for a new torque wrench...I could not get my old one to "click" at 150 NM. I guess my spring is too tired, like myself.
 
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And I think it's time for a new torque wrench...I could not get my old one to "click" at 150 NM. I guess my spring is too tired, like myself.
Cosmo, you may find this hard to believe, but Harbour Freight torque wrenches are great value. And work. Several mechanical and car forums have tested then and they are pretty accurate and very consistent. And long lasting. I consistently recommend them to friends that have a new car but no torque wrench, and would balk at spending $150 for a Wright Tools or even an Armstrong wrench. IMHO, dead on accuracy is not critical, but bolt to bolt consistency is. They are great for throwing in the trunk. I would never do that with a Wright.

I would not use HF wrenches for torquing cylinder bolts on an air cooked Porsche flat six, but I don't do that "no more."
 
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