Rear seat squeak

[RL8]

Correct, it reduced squeaks by 90%, but still can hear them on larger potholes occasionally.
Mobile service will actually replace my rear seat (60 part) next week due to stuck pass through section, and they said that when they will be doing that, they will add felt material between the seat rails and the floor on both 60 and 40 part of the 2nd row, so the squeak issue should be resolved permanently, fingers crossed.
My advice here is to ask mobile service to address this, as it doesn’t fully go away with sliding seats back, at least it didn’t for me.

Thanks for quick reply. Let us know how it goes. Appreciate it.

 

[socktucker]

That plastic isn't just broken it looks melted and corroded. I'd definitely be raising that with the Service Center to make sure there's not another issue somewhere.

There’s a lot of very cheap casting in these cars. My door hinge even has grinder marks in it on one of them that was touched up with paint. Some are really rough.

 

[HC_79]

In the interim, if you have the gap covers then jam the seats up hard against the cover. It stops the squeak also.

 

[rag75]

In the interim, if you have the gap covers then jam the seats up hard against the cover. It stops the squeak also.

I had a horrible squeak coming from the second row area. Moving the second row just right halted the sound, sometimes. But my service center spent extra time tracking the source down and discovered that two sheets of metal under the second row were rubbing together, not the seat itself. They sent it to Lucid's bodyshop to have those sheets welded (i think) together, or attached in some other way. It took a couple of weeks but it has been months since it was returned to me and no squeaks have returned at all since then.

 

[TahoeMichael]

I'm coming late to this thread. I don't have any advice on how to fix the squeak, but I would advise against spraying WD40 down into the seat mechanism. WD40 contains a lot of solvents that can potentially degrade both plastics and factory applied lubricants. It also isn't designed to be a lubricant, and a lot of what's in it that acts a lubricant in the short term will evaporate. But it wont completely evaporate, and the residue left behind is sticky enough to trap grit which can then wear down moving parts. If you feel you need to lubricate the mechanism, consider a PTFE "dry lube", which won't be sticky. Alternately, if you want a wet lubricant, consider something like a dab of lithium grease.

 

[bicycleguy]

Sorry, forgot about this issue. I thought for sure Lucid would figure it out but I guess not.

The design is faulty. Perhaps they meant to use bolts with smaller heads.