Gravity Bugs / Issues

Okay, folks. Things are getting weird, and I'm about to provide a new user case study for how Gravity production is evolving and whether issues are getting resolved as production proceeds.

Our black Gravity was totaled this morning in an accident. I won't go into any details here, but the structural integrity of Lucids wins kudos again.

So we've already ordered another Gravity Dream Edition, this one in White/Tahoe/Aether (22-23") wheels. It's factory-gated already and should get here in a few weeks.

Our first Gravity DE was delivered the last day of Q2. Our second Gravity DE was delivered almost the last day of Q3. Our third Gravity DE should arrive right around the end of Q4.

There were improvements between the first and second: no second-row seat rattle, no signs of drive unit failure, no HUD screen distortion, GPS/navigation functioning (mostly), better fit on some exterior trim. Of course, the software gremlins still show up in full force, but the hardware has significantly improved.

So, let's see what end-of-the-year production brings . . . .
Wow. Sorry to hear that but glad you guys are safe and sound.
 
Same here. Haven’t connected my Gravity to my home WiFi based on reading on this forum that some thought it might be causing issues. I also only have one bar of LTE at home but connectivity (including for OTA software updates) has been totally fine.
When parked in my home's detached two car garage, I see about 5% battery loss a day. When parked in my vacation home's garage, there is no battery loss. The only difference is I haven't yet introduced my Gravity to my vacation home's WiFi. I'm going to delete my home WiFi network info from the car and see if that resolves my battery drain issue at home.
 
Consumer Reports posted a video short yesterday as a preview to their full review of the Gravity.

Things did not get off to a rollicking start:

If this is the same video I watched, some of the reviewer's comments really irked me. The worst one, in my mind, is when he complained about not being able to tell whether the squircle steering wheel was right side up. He went on about how race car drivers put a piece of tape on the top of their squircles to tell them which side is up. As if having the Lucid name in the middle, the thumb protrusions on the inside of the squircle, and the orientation of the touch pads was not enough. He struck me as really reaching to find complaints. Sad, because there really were some issues worth discussing but he was piling on unnecessarily.
 
Okay, it seems I am the only one with this issue, but my rear passenger window is, once again, stuck in a half down position. It’s maddening. I have another 600 miles on this roadtrip and it’s 32 degrees. I will have to use a trash bag taped over the window…again.

This happened shortly after delivery in August, I had to get some sort of new actuator in the window, waited 8 days for the part to come from the “production line”. It has worked perfectly since then - until now. Now it will be raining and snowing on first leg of trip tomorrow. Awesome.

When it was fixed, I asked them to make sure all seals were checked, etc. Ugh.
Wow @Ron_Burgundy … that is unbelievably frustrating, especially in the middle of a long road trip with freezing temperatures and a full family onboard! Having a rear window jam itself half open at 32 degrees is the exact opposite of the “luxury EV experience” any of us signed up for. The fact that you already went through this once back in August makes it that much more maddening.

Needing to tape a trash bag over the window for hundreds of miles… again… is the kind of thing that would test the patience of a monk. The image of your family laughing while secretly freezing is heartbreaking. It is rough that Lucid Customer Care and the service centers are closed right when you need them, and it is even rougher that this happened at the start of rain and snow. You deserve a medal for maintaining any sense of humor through this!

Honestly, at this point, asking for a whole new door does not even sound unreasonable. If they hand you one in a different color, I think we would all support you rocking the mismatched look with pride. 😆

Please stay safe on the rest of your trip, and keep us updated once you are able to get into service. Really hoping they find a permanent fix this time so you never have to travel with a trash-bag window again. Sending you (and your passengers) warmer thoughts than the rear cabin right now. 💚❄️
 
Okay, it seems I am the only one with this issue, but my rear passenger window is, once again, stuck in a half down position. It’s maddening. I have another 600 miles on this roadtrip and it’s 32 degrees. I will have to use a trash bag taped over the window…again.
This is beyond anyone's patience and tolerance. And twice!
Would a piece of clear acrylic from HD cut to fit and duck taped work? The trash bag is probably faster.
Have a safe trip home.
 
@Ron_Burgundy
FWIW, I had a situation where I had to cover a broken rear window. I tried duct taping plastic over it but it would snap in the wind really bad and duct tape leaves residue on the paint. Since I had to wait for a while to get the window the glass place did a professional plastic with a special tape that won’t hurt the paint and was super tight and didn’t snap in the wind.

TLDR; might be worth going to your nearest glass place and having them install plastic for you until you can get it resolved!
 
When parked in my home's detached two car garage, I see about 5% battery loss a day. When parked in my vacation home's garage, there is no battery loss. The only difference is I haven't yet introduced my Gravity to my vacation home's WiFi. I'm going to delete my home WiFi network info from the car and see if that resolves my battery drain issue at home.
Could there be a difference in how far from the car you store your fob while parked? It's possible the car is not going to deep sleep if it keeps discovering fob's signal.
I bought a small faraday pouch on Amazon and put my fob in it because my key's storage tray is just on the other side of garage door, only 10 ft away from the car. I also disabled proximity lock/unlock and use the lock button to make sure car goes to sleep.
 
Mine has not stopped responding completely. However, it is far less responsive than it was. At some point, not sure which update or when, I began to have to press multiple times for things - sometimes. And sometimes they work on first try.

It’s one physical button (best I can tell) for everything - the bottom DD settings are just a different color pad, but appear to be the same button. So it relies entirely on finger placement on the capacitive pad.

Not sure why it’s wonky, but many folks have said it is. Haven’t seen anyone say theirs just doesn’t work at all. If that’s your case, you probably need service.
Resurfacing this issue to say that I just completed a road trip and had the same issues with the left pad. Starting or canceling DD requires multiple presses most of the time, but occasionally works on the first press. The same goes for changing DD speed or distance. I’ve never had a problem with the buttons failing to trigger for reboots, though. Software or hardware - who knows?
 
Resurfacing this issue to say that I just completed a road trip and had the same issues with the left pad. Starting or canceling DD requires multiple presses most of the time, but occasionally works on the first press. The same goes for changing DD speed or distance. I’ve never had a problem with the buttons failing to trigger for reboots, though. Software or hardware - who knows?
I have the same experience in my car, despite recent replacement of the steering wheel. However, I wonder if your focus on the left pad is due to its more frequent use, hence more chances of random faults. Do you use any buttons on the right pad with similar frequency as on the left pad to statistically differentiate their response quality?
In my experience, I use custom button on the right pad for Homelink, which means 2 presses for each time I drive the car, one to leave and one to come back.
I get just as much frustration with Custom/Homelink button on the right pad as I get with DD button on the left pad, i.e. sometimes works perfectly, sometimes requires multiple presses.
BTW, I accept the common belief these devices are like joysticks with added touch sensors, i.e. you must have appropriate amount of finger contact in the middle of the button, not just pressure at the edges, so I pay attention to engage them correctly every time, yet still get random quality of response.
 
I have the same experience in my car, despite recent replacement of the steering wheel. However, I wonder if your focus on the left pad is due to its more frequent use, hence more chances of random faults. Do you use any buttons on the right pad with similar frequency as on the left pad to statistically differentiate their response quality?
In my experience, I use custom button on the right pad for Homelink, which means 2 presses for each time I drive the car, one to leave and one to come back.
I get just as much frustration with Custom/Homelink button on the right pad as I get with DD button on the left pad, i.e. sometimes works perfectly, sometimes requires multiple presses.
BTW, I accept the common belief these devices are like joysticks with added touch sensors, i.e. you must have appropriate amount of finger contact in the middle of the button, not just pressure at the edges, so I pay attention to engage them correctly every time, yet still get random quality of response.
Good question. I do use the right pad a lot, and it’s generally more consistent, yet not 100% accurate. I use the right pad to play/pause audio from bluetooth, skip tracks, advance podcasts, etc. and it’s very reliable for those things. I also have Homelink programmed to the custom button and that function is way less reliable, taking 1 - 3 presses, with 2 presses being the most common outcome. I, too, am careful about finger placement.

My impression is that the left pad is worse than the right, but neither are reliable as they should be.
 
My impression is that the left pad is worse than the right, but neither are reliable as they should be.
Thanks, that's an interesting observation. I wonder if 2 buttons at the bottom of the "joystick" are worse off compared to 4 directional buttons due to their off center placement, making it more difficult to register reliably.
I'm a hardware/software engineer, so these things are in my wheelhouse. I can't be sure unless I take apart my car (not gonna happen), but in my experience if something has both hardware and software components to it and works at least some of the time, then it's much more likely a software issue or a hardware deficiency fixable in software. If it doesn't work at all, then it's more likely a hardware issue, although could still be related to software. Since my steering wheel was recently replaced (unrelated to touchpads), but touchpads still suck, I'm leaning towards a future OTA fix for these issues.
 
Hello, first post and have a couple questions that I don't think are deserving of a new thread. I have searched and read a lot, but can't find the answers.
Coming from Tesla, so I'm trying to figure out how Lucids work.

My Gravity appears to be connected to Wi-Fi continuously, is this normal or does it indicate it's not sleeping?

How long after delivery do you usually see your first update? I am currently still on 3.3.5 but was told by service yesterday that they would push .9 to my car last night...but it did not come.

Thanks
 
Yeah I got the key not detected error this morning, and proximity unlock failed also so I had to use the fob to manually unlock. The key not detected alert went away in 5 seconds though and I was able to drive. It is really remarkable, like how many OTA and firmware updates have their been now to try and get rid of fob troubles and STILL people are getting key not detected errors, but at least they seem to go away now and people can drive the car.
The first feature I turned off was the Autolock/Open. I don't need the car unlocking everytime I walk past it with the key fob in my pocket. There are times when I walk in and out of my garage a lot and seeing the car light up each time was annoying, not to mention eating up battery life.
 
Thanks, that's an interesting observation. I wonder if 2 buttons at the bottom of the "joystick" are worse off compared to 4 directional buttons due to their off center placement, making it more difficult to register reliably.
I'm a hardware/software engineer, so these things are in my wheelhouse. I can't be sure unless I take apart my car (not gonna happen), but in my experience if something has both hardware and software components to it and works at least some of the time, then it's much more likely a software issue or a hardware deficiency fixable in software. If it doesn't work at all, then it's more likely a hardware issue, although could still be related to software. Since my steering wheel was recently replaced (unrelated to touchpads), but touchpads still suck, I'm leaning towards a future OTA fix for these issues.
I think it’s definitely possible - and I’d actually call it probable - that bottom buttons don’t actuate as well as the top 4.

Still, I had way more trouble raising/lowering the speed in DD on the left pad, than I have raising/lowering the audio volume in the same positions on the right one. That wasn’t evident until I used DD a lot over the last few days.

My hope is that things can be software tuned. In a recent video from Driven Car Reviews that featured the chief Gravity engineer, it was mentioned that they were hearing feedback from owners about the pads. However, the conversation was more about clicking from the edges and not overall responsiveness.
 
You just gave Lucid an idea for Gravity accessory store - "removable windows covers, for those cold winter trips when your windows don't roll up!"
This has actually already been patented on behalf of @Ron_Burgundy and the forum.
 
If this is the same video I watched, some of the reviewer's comments really irked me. The worst one, in my mind, is when he complained about not being able to tell whether the squircle steering wheel was right side up. He went on about how race car drivers put a piece of tape on the top of their squircles to tell them which side is up. As if having the Lucid name in the middle, the thumb protrusions on the inside of the squircle, and the orientation of the touch pads was not enough. He struck me as really reaching to find complaints. Sad, because there really were some issues worth discussing but he was piling on unnecessarily.
Perhaps the literacy challenged individual missed the part where if the wheel is right side up, so are the letters that spell LUCID.
 
@Ron_Burgundy
FWIW, I had a situation where I had to cover a broken rear window. I tried duct taping plastic over it but it would snap in the wind really bad and duct tape leaves residue on the paint. Since I had to wait for a while to get the window the glass place did a professional plastic with a special tape that won’t hurt the paint and was super tight and didn’t snap in the wind.

TLDR; might be worth going to your nearest glass place and having them install plastic for you until you can get it resolved!
For now, after the plastic made too much noise and got caught up in wind, I have used some fairly strong cardboard and packing tape - careful not to get any on paint. We shall see if it continues to stay. I really didn’t want duct tape as that would leave permanent marks - my hope is packing tape marks can be removed with rubbing alcohol.

I am hoping Lucid doesn’t make me wait days or weeks to take the car. If they do, I will need custom cut plexi or something.

It’s much harder with frameless windows to cover the top piece.
 
Hello, first post and have a couple questions that I don't think are deserving of a new thread. I have searched and read a lot, but can't find the answers.
Coming from Tesla, so I'm trying to figure out how Lucids work.

My Gravity appears to be connected to Wi-Fi continuously, is this normal or does it indicate it's not sleeping?

How long after delivery do you usually see your first update? I am currently still on 3.3.5 but was told by service yesterday that they would push .9 to my car last night...but it did not come.

Thanks
Not sure about the WiFi question.

On software, someone said they stopped the 3.3.9 rollout - similar to 3.3.8 - not sure if there was an issue but you might want to check the 3.3.9 thread. If it is out there, you’ll get it at some point but I don’t think the can actually push it to you.
 
The first feature I turned off was the Autolock/Open. I don't need the car unlocking everytime I walk past it with the key fob in my pocket. There are times when I walk in and out of my garage a lot and seeing the car light up each time was annoying, not to mention eating up battery life.
It's a great feature in many newer cars, but it absolutely needs a saved GPS location exclusion list for just this reason.

My Macan and Mach-E flash every time I walk in the garage too. Annoying.
 
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