2025 Air touring efficiency

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2025 Touring
I didn’t have much time to gather efficiency numbers for summer but I am curious if I’m alone in the really bad efficiency in the winter. It’s a PNW winter so it’s not exactly cold. Maybe an average of 45-50 this year since it’s been a warm winter. I’ve read all the threads and don’t really see any numbers as bad as mine that match the conditions I drive in. Aside from maybe being explained by only having 2000 miles on the car? But this explanation makes no sense to me. Am I going to suffer with bad efficiency until my lease is up because I don’t drive much?

I’m on the factory all season 19” rims/tires. The top number is with 38 miles highway/freeway and the rest city over 5 days. Should I be concerned with this? During my normal commute where it’s all city or partial highway, I usually see 1.5-2 mi/kwh here. Is this in the realm of normal? I understand it includes climate but I wouldn’t expect it to affect it so dramatically. I mean we should be talking 1kwh/day based on how long I was in the car. Even then the numbers seem really bad. And trip A is probably 60/40 city/highway and doesn’t include climate which seems pretty bad too. Trip B is since I bought the car and includes some summer months on 20” rims/summer tires so hard to compare. Still not great though.

Only interesting thing I’ve noticed is that the battery always seems to show the reduced efficiency indicator below 55 degrees outside. Everyone else seems to talk about that showing up when it gets down closer to freezing.

And for the record I drive like a grandma. Im in smooth mode 99% of the time. And I’ve been paying very close attention to using regen only when I absolutely need it to reduce the round trip losses in case that was the problem.

I can take it to the dealer but appointments are 3 months out so I figured I’d just solicit some feedback here first to see if I’m alone.
 

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Yeah but this is 45-55 degrees not sub freezing. I think that’s where I’m confused. I wouldn’t expect it to be this bad
 
The best explanation that I've heard or read actually on this forum is that unlike a hybrid, a big heavy EV like the lucid, does better in a straight line at constant speed. When I got the car I expected better efficiency around town also. However somebody here said that because this car is so heavy, it does not do well when you have to continually start and stop around town. The regenerative breaking helps. But it doesn't offset the amount of energy needed to get this vehicle speed.

Add in the cold weather or in your case more moderate weather but still below optimal temperatures, and you're going to see numbers like what you provided. Does that make sense?
 
The best way to test is to run pre-condition on the battery for 20 mins before you leave, then plugin to charge and heat the cabin up as well. Then take off and see if you still get low numbers, otherwise in the cold on short trips all the energy is spent heating the cabin and battery pack and it does take quite a while. I got between 2.2-2.9 mi/kwhr in Chicago sub 40 deg f weather unless it was a trip over 15 mins. Also need to use high regen setting.
 
The best way to test is to run pre-condition on the battery for 20 mins before you leave, then plugin to charge and heat the cabin up as well. Then take off and see if you still get low numbers, otherwise in the cold on short trips all the energy is spent heating the cabin and battery pack and it does take quite a while. I got between 2.2-2.9 mi/kwhr in Chicago sub 40 deg f weather unless it was a trip over 15 mins. Also need to use high regen setting.
I guess that was my other point… even that should be a small number if you assume a small car heat pump. Heat pumps should be insanely efficient at 50+ degrees.

But I think you’re right I should try to remove the variable and see what I get.

I do wish you could see the breakdown of energy usage on lucid like you can on other cars. Would help answer a lot of questions.
 
It looks like my problem might largely be the drain when my car is parked. Based on the “efficiency since last charge” I’m losing about 4-5kwh overnight. So that’s 4-5% or more every 12 hours or so? Wonder if something is wrong.
 
That may be normal if it's parked super cold out, otherwise hard to know with the current software views. Things to check, turn off HVAC, wi-fi. Something could be preventing it from sleeping fully, or its trying to maintain heat in the battery automatically.
 
I've parked my 2023 Air Pure outside (without a charging connection) in below zero F weather and the loss was mininal, less than 2% over a whole weekend ( 2 and 1/2 days). I don't have it connected to WiFi, passive lock/unlock are both turned off, and I never use the app to check the car. Not sure any of that matters but its how mine is set up.
 
It was around freezing last night. The night before it was in the 30s and it lost around 3-4kwh overnight. I’ve woken up to cold battery notifications for what seems like 5 months. Basically any time it’s below 50 degrees.

Maybe it’s doing some thermal management on the batteries but it seems more extreme than others are seeing anecdotally.

The car sleeps quite quickly too. It’s not like it’s running HVAC and Wi-Fi is off.
 
Battery thermal management has changed since last year. If its cold it will only charge approximately 1/2 the time if plugged in after being parked overnight. Last winter it seemed to more reliably charge if plugged in with a cold battery.
 
I would say your numbers do seem a bit low, given the temps. But not insanely low.

Parking outside could definitely be a factor. Even if it’s not losing that much overnight, the start of the day will be that much less efficient with a really cold battery. I wonder if preconditioning 20-30 minutes before leaving in the morning would help?

Also, city driving is definitely less efficient than highway. The biggest hit to your efficiency comes from getting up to speed from a stop. Once you have momentum, the car uses far less energy.
 
The best explanation that I've heard or read actually on this forum is that unlike a hybrid, a big heavy EV like the lucid, does better in a straight line at constant speed. When I got the car I expected better efficiency around town also. However somebody here said that because this car is so heavy, it does not do well when you have to continually start and stop around town. The regenerative breaking helps. But it doesn't offset the amount of energy needed to get this vehicle speed.

Add in the cold weather or in your case more moderate weather but still below optimal temperatures, and you're going to see numbers like what you provided. Does that make sense?
Totally agree with this my 2024 Lucid Air Pure probably gets 320 maybe in city and much better on highway. Course with city driving you are never far (?) from home so doing 320 miles in a day city driving, wow, that is a lot. I never get close to that in a day so city driving is never an issue for any range anxiety.
 
À couple of thoughts. First, I have found that driving on wet pavement reduces efficiency - especially at speed on a highway. Second, I have found that short trips around town in cold or cool weather get the worst efficiency. Sometimes really bad. So consider whether you are making lots of short trips in the rain. You could run a test by heading out for a long drive ( > 50 miles?) when it's not raining.
 
At 55 mph in light rain, tires need to displace ~3 gallons of water per second. In heavy rain it’s ~25 gallons per second.

I’ve noticed a significant efficiency drop even in light rain.
 
At 55 mph in light rain, tires need to displace ~3 gallons of water per second. In heavy rain it’s ~25 gallons per second.

I’ve noticed a significant efficiency drop even in light rain.
They definitely got those numbers downhill with the wind. I joke but they did do a 5 run test vs 2 or something slightly advantageous is what I heard.
 
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I got my AT in Jan last year. Currently at 12k miles, lifetime efficiency is 3.90 kw/h. My A trip is from Oct of last year so basically all Winter, that efficiency is at 3.67 kw/h. Yours seems quite low. You mentioned something about your regen setting - utilize the regen to the max, it's key to EV efficiency.
 
They definitely got those numbers downhill with the wind. I joke but they did do a 5 run test vs 2 or something slightly advantageous is what I heard.
There are two EPA tests. Both are legal and valid. Tesla/Lucid and most of the American manufacturers use the 5-cycle test, which EPA says is more accurate (lol), and of course is better for marketing.

It’s also more expensive to run than the older 2-cycle test (which the EPA says is less accurate, lol) which is at least partly why the Germans and Koreans (and others) use it, despite it underrating mileage by a significant amount.

Both tests are just estimates, and it’s turtles all the way down.

Yes, it’s stupid af. I’d say the EPA should fix it, but they’d have to exist in any meaningful capacity to do that and not have been slaughtered by the present administration instead. But I digress.
 
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