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Lucid Gravity UX 3.6 is here!
- Thread starter marqie
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(For Air; Gravity will use Digital Key and thus will have Wallet support)
Heh, sounds like we’ve worked in some similar rooms
Not mine! Lucid says that’s not an official way to open it, but “it may work, but is not a standard procedure”
I've gotten in the habit of just opening the driver door and using the frunk button on the far left end of the upper dash display. If I'm wanting to open the frunk, odds are I'm needing to open the driver door anyway.
We're on our first road trip using the Gravity. Drove 780 miles yesterday Denver to Vegas (got 2.65 MPK for the whole drive). The slow fob is so persistent (even after 3.6.0) that I find myself keeping a door or frunk/liftgate open while doing back and forth things with the car, otherwise it'll lock itself and I'll have the 5-15 (sometimes 20+) second delay getting back in again. Even just walking around the car to get in the other side, if I stray a bit too far from the car it'll lock and I'll have to "start over". Or charging the car (since the charge port door locks too). Keeping any door open forces the whole car to stay unlocked.
It's not a huge enough annoyance to turn walkaway lock off (that would create it's own annoyance, and risk of forgetting now that I'm so used to it in my vehicles). But still annoying enough to find workarounds to deal with it. Hopefully service will find my fob is the problem and replace it next month on my service visit, but I'm doubtful that's the problem. It's weird how inconsistent this all is for different owners. For some it's never been a problem. For others, 3.6.0 totally fixed it (and IIRC the previous update fixed some others). But then there's some that the updates haven't done a thing. Really odd that a universal software update would fix some but not others. Must be multiple different problems, otherwise the same update should work for all.
Same here. Pushing the door handle in does nothing if the car hasn't received the unlock authorization yet. That's the part I'm usually waiting on. I do try the door handle push at times when it's slow, just in case it's a handle-present issue rather than an authorization issue. But that's never proven to be the case on mine. It just isn't getting/processing the authorization signal on a timely basis. I can tell that because the manual charge port door won't open with, or the liftgate button.
Yup. It used to work fine. My car is back in service for the 4th and final time for them to correct t this junk. Engineers can’t figure it out, they’ve replaced all the door handles. I fear they laid off the people that knew how to fix it, or, it’s just so broken they can’t fix it.
I keep trying different things with the fob. Sometimes I'll stand there and shake it, other times I'll purposely just hold it in my hand without shaking it. I'm trying to discern a pattern but it doesn't seem to make any difference. There's times I'll just walk up to the driver door and stand totally still. Anywhere from 5-25 seconds later it just magically opens. That's why I'm doubtful it's the fob itself. Seems more like the receiving end (i.e. the car) is either not receiving the signal well, or processing the signal well. Once it finally kicks in, it kicks in fine. I see all 4 door handles present, and the liftgate and charge port door work. I can hear a selenoid in the rear area of the car opening first (maybe the charge port lock?), then the door handles present about half a second later. That part is working fine.
I learned to try things like that with my Mach-E. In that case, it was a poorly located receiver where the fob signal was getting blocked. It was near the driver door hinges. With the fob in my right pocket, if I angled my body where the fob signal was totally opposite the receiver (i.e. had to go sideways across by body), it wouldn't work. I learned I had to rotate my body a little so the fob-to-receiver had a more clear path. Became perfectly consistent and repeatable. Same thing happened when opening the liftgate. If the fob was in a my pocket near the corner of the car, it would block the signal. The fob had to be closer to the center of the liftgate to get a signal through. Once I learned the pattern and where to stand, it was fine.
I haven't found that to be the case with the Gravity though. Where the fob is doesn't seem to matter. It's not a signal blockage, it's just slow to wake up and get it, or to process it.
oh hah Lucid is not about that lemon law life. They're not going to do that.
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I've said this before, but I am sadly surprised by their inability to fix the vehicles they design, from yours to mine to hmp10's ...
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Who at Lucid said this? It’s literally in the owners manual.
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I don’t know who you spoke to but it’s definitely an intended feature, and has been there since day 1.
That's if the car is already unlocked. I could be wrong, but I assume he was talking about getting the car unlocked in the first place (like I was). Pressing the handle in does nothing to trigger a slow unlock if the "valid fob detected" part isn't working well (as is still the case for some of us).
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I called Customer Care. They checked a few things (apparently this can be an issue if you've ever changed the email address associated with your account) and then said a factory reset was necessary. A little annoying, but this did resolve the issue.... now we just have to set up all our settings again.
We also resolved my CarPlay issue, which... I'm not sure whose fault this problem is. When you pair bluetooth the car appears as "Lucid Gravity - 496", and while that shows up under "My Cars" it can't be used to connect CarPlay and blocks CarPlay entirely. If I delete that and don't allow Bluetooth to start, I see "Lucid Gravity - 2496" which then can pair correctly for Wireless CarPlay.
Why does one mode use 3 digits and one use 4? Surely someone's bug.
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On the loaner I had, until it updated to 3.5.7 it’s fob was horrible. Proximity and pressing buttons almost never worked. So I turned proximity off. Pressing the door handle to lock and unlock worked every single time thereafter, despite the fob buttons still hardly ever doing anything. Not saying everyone’s car is going to work that way, but that worked for me in that case.
Once the 3.5.7 installed, and tho it was not supposed to do anything but prep for 3.6, the buttons and the proximity unlock all worked every time. I would be thrilled if Lucid could figure it out for everyone
I suspect depends on why the car hasn't unlocked and presented the handles.
If the car got the fob signal but just didn't unlock, then pushing in the handles may or may not help (maybe it will trigger the car to recheck or retry the unlock)
If the car was sleeping too deeply and didn't realize there was a fob nearby, then pushing in the handle will wake up the car and it will then see the fob and unlock.
That's been my experience anyway in the Air.
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Weird. My CarPlay one is three digits, and the mobile key one is five digits. No four, heh.I called Customer Care. They checked a few things (apparently this can be an issue if you've ever changed the email address associated with your account) and then said a factory reset was necessary. A little annoying, but this did resolve the issue.... now we just have to set up all our settings again.
We also resolved my CarPlay issue, which... I'm not sure whose fault this problem is. When you pair bluetooth the car appears as "Lucid Gravity - 496", and while that shows up under "My Cars" it can't be used to connect CarPlay and blocks CarPlay entirely. If I delete that and don't allow Bluetooth to start, I see "Lucid Gravity - 2496" which then can pair correctly for Wireless CarPlay.
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What's the trick for DDPro not calibrating again? Just drove 200 mi round trip after using it around town and still showing the little icon that the lane control is non-operational