First-Time EV Buyer: Looking for a Pre-Owned Air Touring (Tips on Model Years?)

[lucidfan2026]

Hi everyone,
My wife and I are ready to make the jump to our very first EV. We are not fans of Tesla, but we absolutely fell in love with the Lucid Air. We are currently looking for a pre-owned Lucid Air Touring.
Since this is our first electric vehicle, I want to be smart and cautious about our choice. I would love to get some insights from long-term owners on a few things:

• Model Year Differences: Are there significant real-world upgrades between the 2023, 2024, and 2025/2026 Touring models that make a newer year worth the extra cost? (e.g., infotainment processors, NVH/motor noise, or the heat pump?)
• Must-Have Packages: Are there specific options—like the Comfort & Convenience package or Surreal Sound Pro—that you consider absolute dealbreakers?
• Pre-Purchase Checks: What specific things should I ask a third-party dealer or look out for on a test drive?

I really appreciate any tips or guidance you can share to help us make the right decision!
Thanks,
Ash

 

[Jimster480]

Nice thread, is the 2022 much worse than 2023? There is often not much of a difference in price.

 

[DeaneG]

Every year brought small improvements here and there. Newer cars will have a longer remaining warranty. The big update in 2025 added a great pump for more efficient cold weather driving, a faster infotainment computer which will accept the newest user interface software, and noise dampening front motor mounts for a quieter cabin.

 

[Aka-none]

Nice thread, is the 2022 much worse than 2023? There is often not much of a difference in price.

I would expect any early issues would be resolved by now. Early models were more variable than current versions, in a way that’s kind of normal for a radically different auto experience. No matter who built it.
Now if someone here were to try and offload a lemon and you just bought a car with the same description …
Here’s how I approached it, did the car do all the things the car should do? Yes/no
Do I like the car (color, comfort, drive ability, etc)? Yes/no
Go for it if the cost is less than or equals the value you place on it. If you’re looking at multiple cars then which feels like you?
I mean it’s a durable good with a depreciating value (some people seem to be trying to hasten the road to zero) so if you like it then who cares.

 

[knewman]

Aside from running the VIN for a history check, I'd have an independent mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection if you're buying used.

The only thing I'd say is a must-have would be the CCCv2 upgrade. Especially now that there are tangible features you're missing out on without it. This comes standard on 2025+ (and some 2024 models I believe), but can also be purchased from Lucid for $1k.

I'd categorize the other packages are purely personal preference. I really like the soft close doors that come with the convenience package but I'm sure others would say it's a waste of money.

 

[WildRide47]

Nice thread, is the 2022 much worse than 2023? There is often not much of a difference in price.

I have a 2022 AGT. Had some problems with the passenger door(which was corrected with a new motor several years ago). Otherwise trouble free. In fact I have no plans to upgrade to the newer chip because everything works just fine and I plan to sell it sometime between March-October of 2027 and replace it either with Cosmos Dream or BMW electric M3. I do not feel that 2022 or 2023 makes any difference. Strictly depends on whether that particular car has had a lot of problems or very few problems. Mine falls into the latter category.

 

[DeaneG]

I also had very few problems with my 2022 AGT.
Really needed the 360 cams, really enjoyed the surround sound pro.

 

[donfenn]

At a minimum, I'd look for a 2023 with some significant warranty remaining. Having several months of full warranty coverage is a good safety net, and more is always better. Not to say that 2022 is bad choice, but you will be on your own without a warranty.

The 2024s had some minor improvements, and the 2025s add a heat pump and an updated processor, which could save you the $1,000 upgrade cost. The heat pump only matters for heating in cold climate settings.

I couldn’t live without SSP sound, though that might depend on how much you care about audio quality. I like the features of the convenience group, but worry some about operation of soft close doors after warranty ends... However, you will also get rear sunshades and four zone AC/heat with convenience group,

One other thing I discovered is that the headliner varies by roof and interior. Starting in 2025 the Touring with the solid aluminum roof gives you a light gray woven headliner rather than alcantara. . IMO it looks somewhat bland compared with the alcantara which was standard in the 2023–2024 models. Glass dome roof cars still come with alcantara.

 

[Jimster480]

Aside from running the VIN for a history check, I'd have an independent mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection if you're buying used.

The only thing I'd say is a must-have would be the CCCv2 upgrade. Especially now that there are tangible features you're missing out on without it. This comes standard on 2025+ (and some 2024 models I believe), but can also be purchased from Lucid for $1k.

I'd categorize the other packages are purely personal preference. I really like the soft close doors that come with the convenience package but I'm sure others would say it's a waste of money.

What is CCCv2? Since it can be bought from Lucid; does that exclude total loss cars?
I am pretty torn between trying to buy a used one from used car dealers and buying one from auction that I fix myself / with my friends shop.
I'm not one to sell cars so residual value doesn't mean much to me, but ideally I'd like a Lucid Air GT because it has the most range and performance. Touring also is an option, but I just wouldn't be able to use it as much due to the lower range.
These cars are so rare that they aren't even available to rent through Turo so I couldn't rent one of each to compare.

I do like the glass roof thing, but I also worry about if that leaks (not sure if that has been a problem) and what it would cost to replace such crazy glass in the future (again since I don't really sell cars, I think long term) if it starts to crack or leak.
I don't care about (nor want) any sort of connected services or self driving features. I would instantly opt out of all accounts and wouldn't care about OTA updates either as long as the car worked day one.

I couldn’t live without SSP sound, though that might depend on how much you care about audio quality. I like the features of the convenience group, but worry some about operation of soft close doors after warranty ends... However, you will also get rear sunshades and four zone AC/heat with convenience group,

What is SSP sound and how do I know if a car has the option? I definitely love high fidelity audio as I have several pairs of audiophile headphones and a high end speaker setup in my living room.

At a minimum, I'd look for a 2023 with some significant warranty remaining. Having several months of full warranty coverage is a good safety net, and more is always better. Not to say that 2022 is bad choice, but you will be on your own without a warranty.

Would I really need it? I have 7+ cars and have never taken a single car for a warranty repair. In fact only one of my cars has ever been to a dealership after purchasing and it was only because my buddy was the service manager there. I have my own shop with lift, so outside of tires & balancing; I do all my own work (this is my hobby).

I have a 2022 AGT. Had some problems with the passenger door(which was corrected with a new motor several years ago). Otherwise trouble free. In fact I have no plans to upgrade to the newer chip because everything works just fine and I plan to sell it sometime between March-October of 2027 and replace it either with Cosmos Dream or BMW electric M3. I do not feel that 2022 or 2023 makes any difference. Strictly depends on whether that particular car has had a lot of problems or very few problems. Mine falls into the latter category.

I have looked at a few of these exactly in the semi-local used market here in FL, but how can I know if a car was a high or low problem car? I looked at vehicle history reports on a couple and didn't see anything.

 

[knewman]

What is CCCv2? Since it can be bought from Lucid; does that exclude total loss cars?
I am pretty torn between trying to buy a used one from used car dealers and buying one from auction that I fix myself / with my friends shop.
I'm not one to sell cars so residual value doesn't mean much to me, but ideally I'd like a Lucid Air GT because it has the most range and performance. Touring also is an option, but I just wouldn't be able to use it as much due to the lower range.
These cars are so rare that they aren't even available to rent through Turo so I couldn't rent one of each to compare.

I do like the glass roof thing, but I also worry about if that leaks (not sure if that has been a problem) and what it would cost to replace such crazy glass in the future (again since I don't really sell cars, I think long term) if it starts to crack or leak.

My bad, I fell into some jargon there - CCCv2 is the Center Console Control unit, it's the computer that controls much of the interface and car subsystem. https://store.lucidmotors.com/center-console-control-unit/

I'd be super wary about buying a totaled car. I don't doubt you or your mechanic's capability, but modern manufacturers are notorious for throwing up roadblocks when bringing these things back from the dead. Lucid in particular has told some people they won't take the car out of service mode without hugely expensive service visits.

The range is nice to have with the GT, but you're losing an around an inch of leg space in the back seat to make room for extra battery packs. Not sure if that matters to you.

I've never heard of the glass canopy leaking. It's not like a T-top from days of yore. You're more exposed to cracking/scratching not necessarily due to the structure of the glass, but simply because there's much more surface area exposed to debris. I've seen Lucid quote $1300 for a replacement in the event it's damaged beyond repair, but I've seen independent shops quote as high as $9000. Check with your local service center to see if they handle glass replacement inhouse or not.

 

[Northpointe]

Once you've satisfied yourself with the overall condition of the car, the most important factor will be the remaining factory warning. Look at the "in service" date as that will dictate when the warranty will expire. There have been instances of buyers acquiring somewhat older models with later in-service dates. Consider a pre-purchase inspection through a company with EV expertise (like Lemon Squad) but realize they may have limited familiarity with Lucid.

These are not like other EV's or even ICE cars. Other than tire changes almost all other repair issues have to be addressed through the Lucid service network. These are not cars that you can "wrench" on or take to your corner mechanic. Expecting that will only cause frustration. If you buy a car with know issues you will be very frustrated in getting them addressed anywhere but Lucid.

Given the proprietary nature of the Lucid Service network you may want to investigate what the current staffing and service levels are of the location nearest you. While Lucid is investing in improving the service center experience, it can be very frustrating in the short term. It is not uncommon to wait 2 months for an appointment at some service centers and then another month while your car is in service. This is not the case at all service centers but the condition does exist. Also consider how your car will get to the service center. Are you within driving distance? If not then your vehicle will need to be transported (by Lucid) and that will add to your repair time. Depending on the issue Lucid might be able to repair it via mobile service. Lengthy repairs may require a loaner. It may be a Lucid or it could be a rental. If your car is out of service for an extended period will it bother you to drive a non-Lucid while it's being repaired?

My best advice is to make sure that you are well versed on the car and expected ownership experience prior to your purchase. Both are important.

 

[doubletwist]

don't care about (nor want) any sort of connected services or self driving features. I would instantly opt out of all accounts and wouldn't care about OTA updates either as long as the car worked day one.

Then perhaps a software defined vehicle is not right for you.

Would I really need it? I have 7+ cars and have never taken a single car for a warranty repair. In fact only one of my cars has ever been to a dealership after purchasing and it was only because my buddy was the service manager there. I have my own shop with lift, so outside of tires & balancing; I do all my own work (this is my hobby).

Are you familiar with working on high voltage systems in electric vehicles? This isn't a "safely disconnect the 12v battery and you're fine" kind of vehicle in that respect. There are things in this car that WILL kill you if you do it wrong.

And vehicles like this require special tooling and software that is not available outside of Lucid services centers and authorized body shops, who spend solid 6 figures to send people to me trained on the use of said tools.

You can't even get OBD information without access to Lucid's locked down Ethernet bus in the car.

It's the best driving car you'd ever own, but it is not for someone who just weekend warriors his way through old school auto repairs and oil changes.

 

[donfenn]

I am pretty torn between trying to buy a used one from used car dealers and buying one from auction that I fix myself / with my friends shop.

I’d strongly advise against buying a salvage Lucid. These cars are much more technologically complex than most vehicles, and Lucid tightly controls access to its software, service resources, and parts. That can make even a repairable auction car very difficult to bring back to proper working order.

My understanding is that a salvage Lucid may need to be torn down, rebuilt, and recertified by a Lucid-authorized shop before it can meet Lucid’s standards. I’ve heard that process alone can cost around $35,000. Unless you have a very clear repair plan and know exactly what Lucid will require, I’d look for a clean-title used car instead.

 

[Leftlane]

Buying any totalled or salvage EV and thinking you can just wrench on them as usual is a terrible mistake. Not only are they totally different, with systems that can easily kill you, but the manufacturers control the ecosystem and will not participate with you to bring it back to life anyway - you will be bricked and completely at their mercy.

 

[Aka-none]

You can buy all the salvage vehicles you want and have all those parts but without vendor specific knowledge, tools, and documentation you won’t have a fully functioning car. It might be able to move and stop but it won’t be fully functional. Actually it may not be even partially functional since none of the hardware will trust the other parts.
This makes my Audi and can-buss seem like kindergarten

 

[Jimster480]

My bad, I fell into some jargon there - CCCv2 is the Center Console Control unit, it's the computer that controls much of the interface and car subsystem. https://store.lucidmotors.com/center-console-control-unit/

I'd be super wary about buying a totaled car. I don't doubt you or your mechanic's capability, but modern manufacturers are notorious for throwing up roadblocks when bringing these things back from the dead. Lucid in particular has told some people they won't take the car out of service mode without hugely expensive service visits.

The range is nice to have with the GT, but you're losing an around an inch of leg space in the back seat to make room for extra battery packs. Not sure if that matters to you.

I've never heard of the glass canopy leaking. It's not like a T-top from days of yore. You're more exposed to cracking/scratching not necessarily due to the structure of the glass, but simply because there's much more surface area exposed to debris. I've seen Lucid quote $1300 for a replacement in the event it's damaged beyond repair, but I've seen independent shops quote as high as $9000. Check with your local service center to see if they handle glass replacement inhouse or not.

Thank you for the information. There are plenty of lucid air for sale that are actually not in service mode but are totaled out. I would be interested in trying to figure out how to get one out of service mode that was in it. I read about some Russians that were able to take it out, which to me means that no matter what it's possible. Overall, I am a software engineer by trade, but I don't necessarily need to buy one that's totaled in service mode when I can buy one that's not in service mode.

I'm glad to hear about the roof glass, because Targa Tops leaking was a big thing back in the day, because tea top sneaking was a big thing back in the day and that's exactly what I was thinking about.

Then perhaps a software defined vehicle is not right for you.



Are you familiar with working on high voltage systems in electric vehicles? This isn't a "safely disconnect the 12v battery and you're fine" kind of vehicle in that respect. There are things in this car that WILL kill you if you do it wrong.

And vehicles like this require special tooling and software that is not available outside of Lucid services centers and authorized body shops, who spend solid 6 figures to send people to me trained on the use of said tools.

You can't even get OBD information without access to Lucid's locked down Ethernet bus in the car.

It's the best driving car you'd ever own, but it is not for someone who just weekend warriors his way through old school auto repairs and oil changes.

I can have a lucid air and just not use any of those features, after all it's still a car right? I don't need to connect my Bluetooth, use Lucid services or even care about an LTE connection. Hell, I can burn the damn LTE chip out of the car, turn it on and take it to Alaska if I want. At the end of the day, a car is a car with four wheels. Now, in regards to high voltage connections, I hope you do understand there is a fireman's loop and it deactivates the cars electrical system, which then makes it safe to work on.
There's not much of a reason though to be really touching the high voltage lines, at least not on any newer cars. One day, we will be discussing this if the batteries degrade over the next decade or two and the lines have to be replaced. But in buying a totaled lucid air today, most of this is only in replacing bumpers and maybe adding some coolant, replacing brakes or shocks or possibly doors. None of this requires touching the high voltage system. In fact, I wouldn't actually buy a car with a busted high voltage system considering how hard it is to get high voltage system parts without buying a whole additional car.

I’d strongly advise against buying a salvage Lucid. These cars are much more technologically complex than most vehicles, and Lucid tightly controls access to its software, service resources, and parts. That can make even a repairable auction car very difficult to bring back to proper working order.

My understanding is that a salvage Lucid may need to be torn down, rebuilt, and recertified by a Lucid-authorized shop before it can meet Lucid’s standards. I’ve heard that process alone can cost around $35,000. Unless you have a very clear repair plan and know exactly what Lucid will require, I’d look for a clean-title used car instead.

In watching videos about it now, especially the ones from Rich Rebuilds, it shows that the car is indeed not that complex, it's pretty straightforward if you've worked on basically any sort of car before, it's got all the same types of connections as any other regular car, and as far as putting on bumpers and such, it's all about just finding the parts. And there are plenty of Lucid Air parts on eBay because of the savage depreciation of these vehicles, basically if your car gets a ding in the grocery store parking lot, it's a total loss. And therefore, the auction world is absolutely flooded with salvaged Lucid Airs considering how rare these vehicles actually are.
I looked at a few of them that were up for auction and the stuff that looks to be broken on them and then I went on eBay and looked for some of the parts and I was able to find almost everything in like a one-hour period, meaning that if I actually try, I should be able to get every single part within a week or two and put the car back together. I also have a friend who owns a very nice body shop that works on all sorts of special cars and any sort of body work I could just bring it to him and he can fix it.
In fact, that would be my plan. I would acquire all the parts I need for the body work, and anything mechanical that was damaged, I'd try to change it. And then I'd load it up on a trailer and bring it down to my buddy's shop in Miami, and we'll do the body work and reassemble the car. As long as it's not in service mode, it's totally fine.

Buying any totalled or salvage EV and thinking you can just wrench on them as usual is a terrible mistake. Not only are they totally different, with systems that can easily kill you, but the manufacturers control the ecosystem and will not participate with you to bring it back to life anyway - you will be bricked and completely at their mercy.

I bought a total loss Nissan Leaf almost three years ago that had 8,000 miles for around $12,000. The car was actually fine. The damage was virtually non-existent, and I just went and got the car certified for the rebuilt title and titled the car. My wife has been driving it for the last three years, as have I. There's literally no problem, especially in the world of Nissan, I can straight up order any part I want, not that I've needed to, so that's not even a problem. But with the world of Lucid, you're basically getting used parts from salvage cars, but thankfully there's no shortage of those at this point in time.
If they would try to lock the car out in some way, I will simply burn the LTE chip and then hack the software and probably give it to everybody else because that's just the type of person I am.
However, I doubt it will be necessary, especially with Lucid seemingly changing their tune on rich rebuilds, I hope that it's a turnover of a new and better leaf for the company, where they will not be against people rebuilding and repairing their cars, which is very much needed at this point in time by a company that's struggling massively, even after seemingly building a wonderful Car.

You can buy all the salvage vehicles you want and have all those parts but without vendor specific knowledge, tools, and documentation you won’t have a fully functioning car. It might be able to move and stop but it won’t be fully functional. Actually it may not be even partially functional since none of the hardware will trust the other parts.
This makes my Audi and can-buss seem like kindergarten

They are actually all kind of the same systems. It's not really all that much more complicated, and in some ways it's actually less complicated, at least if you're a software engineer like I am. The newer systems are a bit more cohesive and operate the way the computers operate, actually using Ethernet internally rather than just wire pairs with voltage.
But again, I'm not looking at buying a car with a blown electrical system or a dead traction battery, but just one that's been in an accident and needs some body work. There's unfortunately tons of them and the bids are not that high because of the sentiment exactly as seen in this thread

 

[donfenn]

Thank you for the information. There are plenty of lucid air for sale that are actually not in service mode but are totaled out. I would be interested in trying to figure out how to get one out of service mode that was in it. I read about some Russians that were able to take it out, which to me means that no matter what it's possible. Overall, I am a software engineer by trade, but I don't necessarily need to buy one that's totaled in service mode when I can buy one that's not in service mode.

I'm glad to hear about the roof glass, because Targa Tops leaking was a big thing back in the day, because tea top sneaking was a big thing back in the day and that's exactly what I was thinking about.


I can have a lucid air and just not use any of those features, after all it's still a car right? I don't need to connect my Bluetooth, use Lucid services or even care about an LTE connection. Hell, I can burn the damn LTE chip out of the car, turn it on and take it to Alaska if I want. At the end of the day, a car is a car with four wheels. Now, in regards to high voltage connections, I hope you do understand there is a fireman's loop and it deactivates the cars electrical system, which then makes it safe to work on.
There's not much of a reason though to be really touching the high voltage lines, at least not on any newer cars. One day, we will be discussing this if the batteries degrade over the next decade or two and the lines have to be replaced. But in buying a totaled lucid air today, most of this is only in replacing bumpers and maybe adding some coolant, replacing brakes or shocks or possibly doors. None of this requires touching the high voltage system. In fact, I wouldn't actually buy a car with a busted high voltage system considering how hard it is to get high voltage system parts without buying a whole additional car.


In watching videos about it now, especially the ones from Rich Rebuilds, it shows that the car is indeed not that complex, it's pretty straightforward if you've worked on basically any sort of car before, it's got all the same types of connections as any other regular car, and as far as putting on bumpers and such, it's all about just finding the parts. And there are plenty of Lucid Air parts on eBay because of the savage depreciation of these vehicles, basically if your car gets a ding in the grocery store parking lot, it's a total loss. And therefore, the auction world is absolutely flooded with salvaged Lucid Airs considering how rare these vehicles actually are.
I looked at a few of them that were up for auction and the stuff that looks to be broken on them and then I went on eBay and looked for some of the parts and I was able to find almost everything in like a one-hour period, meaning that if I actually try, I should be able to get every single part within a week or two and put the car back together. I also have a friend who owns a very nice body shop that works on all sorts of special cars and any sort of body work I could just bring it to him and he can fix it.
In fact, that would be my plan. I would acquire all the parts I need for the body work, and anything mechanical that was damaged, I'd try to change it. And then I'd load it up on a trailer and bring it down to my buddy's shop in Miami, and we'll do the body work and reassemble the car. As long as it's not in service mode, it's totally fine.


I bought a total loss Nissan Leaf almost three years ago that had 8,000 miles for around $12,000. The car was actually fine. The damage was virtually non-existent, and I just went and got the car certified for the rebuilt title and titled the car. My wife has been driving it for the last three years, as have I. There's literally no problem, especially in the world of Nissan, I can straight up order any part I want, not that I've needed to, so that's not even a problem. But with the world of Lucid, you're basically getting used parts from salvage cars, but thankfully there's no shortage of those at this point in time.
If they would try to lock the car out in some way, I will simply burn the LTE chip and then hack the software and probably give it to everybody else because that's just the type of person I am.
However, I doubt it will be necessary, especially with Lucid seemingly changing their tune on rich rebuilds, I hope that it's a turnover of a new and better leaf for the company, where they will not be against people rebuilding and repairing their cars, which is very much needed at this point in time by a company that's struggling massively, even after seemingly building a wonderful Car.


They are actually all kind of the same systems. It's not really all that much more complicated, and in some ways it's actually less complicated, at least if you're a software engineer like I am. The newer systems are a bit more cohesive and operate the way the computers operate, actually using Ethernet internally rather than just wire pairs with voltage.
But again, I'm not looking at buying a car with a blown electrical system or a dead traction battery, but just one that's been in an accident and needs some body work. There's unfortunately tons of them and the bids are not that high because of the sentiment exactly as seen in this thread

Sounds like you already have it figured out... Not sure why you came here for opinions. Let us know how it goes,

 

[Northpointe]

I can have a lucid air and just not use any of those features, after all it's still a car right? I don't need to connect my Bluetooth, use Lucid services or even care about an LTE connection. Hell, I can burn the damn LTE chip out of the car, turn it on and take it to Alaska if I want. At the end of the day, a car is a car with four wheels.

Sure. If you don't want to run the climate control, know what your range is, open the glove box, change driver profiles, open the trunk/frunk from inside of the car, turn on your wipers, lights, adjust your mirrors, and a whole host of other things. You obviously have very little familiarity with Lucid and how these cars are built. Software is integral to everything associated with the car. If you think you can own a Lucid without any reliance on its software you'll end up with a paperweight.

 

[Aka-none]

Thank you for the information. There are plenty of lucid air for sale that are actually not in service mode but are totaled out. I would be interested in trying to figure out how to get one out of service mode that was in it. I read about some Russians that were able to take it out, which to me means that no matter what it's possible. Overall, I am a software engineer by trade, but I don't necessarily need to buy one that's totaled in service mode when I can buy one that's not in service mode.

I'm glad to hear about the roof glass, because Targa Tops leaking was a big thing back in the day, because tea top sneaking was a big thing back in the day and that's exactly what I was thinking about.


I can have a lucid air and just not use any of those features, after all it's still a car right? I don't need to connect my Bluetooth, use Lucid services or even care about an LTE connection. Hell, I can burn the damn LTE chip out of the car, turn it on and take it to Alaska if I want. At the end of the day, a car is a car with four wheels. Now, in regards to high voltage connections, I hope you do understand there is a fireman's loop and it deactivates the cars electrical system, which then makes it safe to work on.
There's not much of a reason though to be really touching the high voltage lines, at least not on any newer cars. One day, we will be discussing this if the batteries degrade over the next decade or two and the lines have to be replaced. But in buying a totaled lucid air today, most of this is only in replacing bumpers and maybe adding some coolant, replacing brakes or shocks or possibly doors. None of this requires touching the high voltage system. In fact, I wouldn't actually buy a car with a busted high voltage system considering how hard it is to get high voltage system parts without buying a whole additional car.


In watching videos about it now, especially the ones from Rich Rebuilds, it shows that the car is indeed not that complex, it's pretty straightforward if you've worked on basically any sort of car before, it's got all the same types of connections as any other regular car, and as far as putting on bumpers and such, it's all about just finding the parts. And there are plenty of Lucid Air parts on eBay because of the savage depreciation of these vehicles, basically if your car gets a ding in the grocery store parking lot, it's a total loss. And therefore, the auction world is absolutely flooded with salvaged Lucid Airs considering how rare these vehicles actually are.
I looked at a few of them that were up for auction and the stuff that looks to be broken on them and then I went on eBay and looked for some of the parts and I was able to find almost everything in like a one-hour period, meaning that if I actually try, I should be able to get every single part within a week or two and put the car back together. I also have a friend who owns a very nice body shop that works on all sorts of special cars and any sort of body work I could just bring it to him and he can fix it.
In fact, that would be my plan. I would acquire all the parts I need for the body work, and anything mechanical that was damaged, I'd try to change it. And then I'd load it up on a trailer and bring it down to my buddy's shop in Miami, and we'll do the body work and reassemble the car. As long as it's not in service mode, it's totally fine.


I bought a total loss Nissan Leaf almost three years ago that had 8,000 miles for around $12,000. The car was actually fine. The damage was virtually non-existent, and I just went and got the car certified for the rebuilt title and titled the car. My wife has been driving it for the last three years, as have I. There's literally no problem, especially in the world of Nissan, I can straight up order any part I want, not that I've needed to, so that's not even a problem. But with the world of Lucid, you're basically getting used parts from salvage cars, but thankfully there's no shortage of those at this point in time.
If they would try to lock the car out in some way, I will simply burn the LTE chip and then hack the software and probably give it to everybody else because that's just the type of person I am.
However, I doubt it will be necessary, especially with Lucid seemingly changing their tune on rich rebuilds, I hope that it's a turnover of a new and better leaf for the company, where they will not be against people rebuilding and repairing their cars, which is very much needed at this point in time by a company that's struggling massively, even after seemingly building a wonderful Car.


They are actually all kind of the same systems. It's not really all that much more complicated, and in some ways it's actually less complicated, at least if you're a software engineer like I am. The newer systems are a bit more cohesive and operate the way the computers operate, actually using Ethernet internally rather than just wire pairs with voltage.
But again, I'm not looking at buying a car with a blown electrical system or a dead traction battery, but just one that's been in an accident and needs some body work. There's unfortunately tons of them and the bids are not that high because of the sentiment exactly as seen in this thread

Glad to know they teach how to use logic probes and digital analyzers as part of sw eng these days.

And since you’ve got this all wrapped up, what is left for us to discuss with you? Thanks for dropping by, have fun.

 

[doubletwist]

But again, I'm not looking at buying a car with a blown electrical system or a dead traction battery, but just one that's been in an accident and needs some body work.

Most of which will almost certainly require sensor calibration, without which the car may choose not to drive, or constantly spam you with error messages and render any safety systems useless, or may cause a safety system to engage for no reason while you're in the middle of a trip.

As others have said, it sounds like you're confident in your ability to get it and keep it working, so what are asking here for? Go ahead buy one and fix it.