Gravity Bugs / Issues

[dbsb3233]

We are having more frequent alerts about Sensors Blocked, High Beam Assist Unavailable, Dream Drive Assist Unavailable, etc. It's hard to know if these are ghost alerts or actual problems because we aren't in a position to see if they are real; we rarely drive outside of DC at night to know if HBA isn't working, and our left pad doesn't work so we can't use DDP even if we wanted to. Yesterday I noticed that the speed was not registering when the Sensors Blocked alert appeared, along with the HBA unavailable and it stayed that way for the whole 20 minute drive. We also can't do a reboot to see if that removes the alerts. When we need them, will they be unavailable when the alerts appear? And if so, what is the problem and the fix that is needed?

I got that message 3 times tonight when starting up the car in my garage just to test a few things. Just took delivery yesterday. Car is brand new with hardly a spec of dirt on it.

I'm not even sure what sensors it's referring to. Windshield camera, or sensors in the bumpers?

 

[aijunli]

I got that message 3 times tonight when starting up the car in my garage just to test a few things. Just took delivery yesterday. Car is brand new with hardly a spec of dirt on it.

I'm not even sure what sensors it's referring to. Windshield camera, or sensors in the bumpers?

I suggest you look at the forward camera/sensor housing mounted on the windshield. Moisture can condensate inside and block camera view. I got such alerts on a cold New Jersey day. I stopped, got out and took a picture of the housing. By that time, the car started heating the windshield already as you can see a clear strip between two foggy areas. I am also attaching a picture of the housing after the fog was cleared.

 

[BSheppard]

My service center applied a fix for this and the car is now as silent as a tomb. I recommend asking your service center about it.

Do you know what the SC did to fix? Mine is currently in service and this is one of the issues, I mentioned to the SC that the squeak is a priority to fix!

 

[Golfervet]

Not sure if you are referring to to a squeak in the back drivers side seat but if so our service area in Denver knew about the issue and was able to add insulation which fixed the problem.

 

[Zzzt]

Do you know what the SC did to fix? Mine is currently in service and this is one of the issues, I mentioned to the SC that the squeak is a priority to fix!

They applied TSB-N1025-005-01 which I believe replaces the middle seat rail cover with a redesigned part. My Gravity was built 06/25 so it is possible that if your car was built more recently then you already have the updated part, but it is worth checking. The squeak was the worst interior noise I've heard in a new car.

 

[hank-iv]

a regular mirror can be more trustworthy.

Back when I was a boy getting my CDL, we had to back up a garbage truck with just our mirrors, no camera and no motorized adjustment to mirrors. And we ate dirt for breakfast, wood shavings for lunch and tin cans for dinner, the latter in our unheated log cabins with dirt floors.

 

[eelpout]

Yes, this is a feature of the Air and Gravity!

To be fair, this is how the vast majority of other manufactures do the rearview mirror tilt. Yes, I know Tesla does both but that is not the norm.

my Rover is an exception too and does both, but I wish I could select one or the other, or both.

 

[dbsb3233]

a regular mirror can be more trustworthy.

Back when I was a boy getting my CDL, we had to back up a garbage truck with just our mirrors, no camera and no motorized adjustment to mirrors. And we ate dirt for breakfast, wood shavings for lunch and tin cans for dinner, the latter in our unheated log cabins with dirt floors.

Funny. Misses the point, but funny.

 

[BSheppard]

They applied TSB-N1025-005-01 which I believe replaces the middle seat rail cover with a redesigned part. My Gravity was built 06/25 so it is possible that if your car was built more recently then you already have the updated part, but it is worth checking. The squeak was the worst interior noise I've heard in a new car.

Thank you Sir, I concur that it is the worst squeak and constant... Mine was built in September but I will pass this information along

 

[dbsb3233]

Took delivery of my Gravity Friday. Just tried doing my first home charge, using my Grizzl-E and the Lucid-provided J-1772 adapter. Started charging for maybe 20 minutes then faulted (constant blinking red light). Went out to unplug and replug the EVSE from the wall, then the car again, and it wouldn't even start that time (went straight to blinking red).

Unplugged the Grizzl-E again and tried plugging into the Macan... no problem, works fine. It's not a problem with the EVSE. Must either be the Gravity or the adapter. The adapter is not wobbly-loose but it's not exactly tight either. The NASC end is not nearly as tight as the J-1772 end.

I have my Grizzl-E set at 24A. I didn't change the car setting from 80A. Does that have to be lowered to match the EVSE every time? I wouldn't think so.

 

[electric]

I have my Grizzl-E set at 24A. I didn't change the car setting from 80A. Does that have to be lowered to match the EVSE every time? I wouldn't think so.

I have my Grizzl-E set to 48A and Gravity set to 40A, such that car limit is always under the EVSE limit, to prevent possible negotiation errors.
I don't set it every time, it's set once and stays there. You can try as a test to set your car to 20A-24A and see if it changes anything. I assume your charge circuit is capped at 30A.

 

[dbsb3233]

I have my Grizzl-E set to 48A and Gravity set to 40A, such that car limit is always under the EVSE limit, to prevent possible negotiation errors.
I don't set it every time, it's set once and stays there. You can try as a test to set your car to 20A-24A and see if it changes anything. I assume your charge circuit is capped at 30A.

I just tried lowering the car to 16A and it still faults after a few seconds.

The Grizzl-E outlet is on a dedicated 50A breaker. I just intentionally set the Grizzl-E dip switches lower from 40A to 24A because it's a little safer and lowers my monthly demand charge a bit. 24A is plenty fast enough for our purposes (no daily work commute).

Gotta be something with the car or the adapter.

 

[Jackles]

Damaged my rear fender arch trim (the one with a sensor cutout). In case anyone wanted to know, it’s $148.44 for the replacement part. The piece is held by clips.

 

[bicycleguy]

Took delivery of my Gravity Friday. Just tried doing my first home charge, using my Grizzl-E and the Lucid-provided J-1772 adapter. Started charging for maybe 20 minutes then faulted (constant blinking red light). Went out to unplug and replug the EVSE from the wall, then the car again, and it wouldn't even start that time (went straight to blinking red).

Unplugged the Grizzl-E again and tried plugging into the Macan... no problem, works fine. It's not a problem with the EVSE. Must either be the Gravity or the adapter. The adapter is not wobbly-loose but it's not exactly tight either. The NASC end is not nearly as tight as the J-1772 end.

I have my Grizzl-E set at 24A. I didn't change the car setting from 80A. Does that have to be lowered to match the EVSE every time? I wouldn't think so.

I am currently charging on an OpenEVSE I built 10 years ago for my Chevy Spark. I also left the car at 80A. The EVSE is broadcasting 18A and Gravity has been using that for the last 14+ hours.
Same issue with the rather loose adapter to Gravity fit.

 

[Alex]

I have my Grizzl-E set at 24A. I didn't change the car setting from 80A. Does that have to be lowered to match the EVSE every time? I wouldn't think so.

No need to adjust the Gravity amperage. The Gravity will not draw any more than the 24A.

 

[dbsb3233]

No need to adjust the Gravity amperage. The Gravity will not draw any more than the 24A.

Yeah, that's what I assumed (and would be normal) but just wanted to check if it was something weird on this car.

I just drove it to a Chargepoint L2 (J-1772) and it failed there too, on both cords.

Then I drove it to a Tesla Supercharger and it charged fine there (P&C). So at least that works to get me by (albeit at higher cost).

It might just be the included J-1772 adapter. I think the car was charging at the Lucid showroom on L2 with a NACS-handle EVSE. I may try to order a different brand on Amazon and see if that works better. Anyone else have problems with the Lucid J-1772 adapter?

 

[jrreno]

Yeah, that's what I assumed (and would be normal) but just wanted to check if it was something weird on this car.

I just drove it to a Chargepoint L2 (J-1772) and it failed there too, on both cords.

Then I drove it to a Tesla Supercharger and it charged fine there (P&C). So at least that works to get me by (albeit at higher cost).

It might just be the included J-1772 adapter. I think the car was charging at the Lucid showroom on L2 with a NACS-handle EVSE. I may try to order a different brand on Amazon and see if that works better. Anyone else have problems with the Lucid J-1772 adapter?

If you are going to have to use Tesla SCs till this gets resolved you can buy a “membership” for $13.00 per month and get Tesla Owner rates.

 

[dbsb3233]

If you are going to have to use Tesla SCs till this gets resolved you can buy a “membership” for $13.00 per month and get Tesla Owner rates.

Yeah, we've used that a few times on road trips. Good tip, although we're OK for now since we're mostly still driving the Macan EV. Taking that on a 2-week road trip Friday and leaving the Gravity at home. Tempting as it would be to take it, I wanna test it out well around home for a while before we risk a road trip in it. Just too many concerns being reported, and I'm finding some of them.

 

[dbsb3233]

Can anyone see the HUD display while wearing polarized sunglasses? Mine just completely disappears. Utterly worthless if I can't see it with sunglasses on. I have the brightness set to max.

 

[jrb24]

No you will not see it with polarized sunglasses. However, if you take your sunglasses off, hold them in front of your eyes and turn the 90 degress you will see the HUD image. The way it works is that there is an optical grating embedded in the glass where the HUD image is reflected. The grating is tuned to reflect at the visual wavelengths and a specific polarization. It so happens polarized sunglasses are also polarized in a specific way - almost always vertically. (polarized with tiny vertical scratches that you cannot see but only allow light that is similarly polarized to pass through). For fun, if you have two pair of polarized glasses, hold one horizontally then turn the other pair 90 degrees (vertically) and no light will pass through both, they will be entirely black. So short answer...you will not see with traditionally polarized sunglasses by design which is kind of a bummer but just the state of the HUD technology for now.