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Gravity Bugs / Issues

Ron_Burgundy said:
Gosh darn it. I picked up my car from service a week ago and, among other things, it got the fob update, etc.

All worked fine for seven days.

Yesterday, wireless charging stopped working and today the fob won’t start the car at all (spotty yesterday), won’t lock the car and sometimes will open it. It has a brand new battery.

I desperately do NOT want to take it in as I don’t want to have to wait weeks like @msaunders9430 had to for center console, but that’s got to be what it is as I have an “early-ish” Gravity and I bet they didn’t do the bulletin check when it was there a week ago.

Argh. I LOVE this car. It drives so well and is so incredible AND this fob stuff and my Bermuda Triangle consoles make me feel like I am driving an Ouija board.
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Have to redact this and can’t edit any more. I DO keep several extra batteries in my car as @9point81 and others have said they had issues.

As soon as I could, I changed my fob battery and it works perfectly. Should have tried that before my post. BUT..:

1) I changed the battery two weeks ago and fob wasn’t used for a week - so it died after one week of use - with the 3.3.1 car and fob firmware updates. Others have commented on this issue. My fob is kept very far from car (200’+), so can’t be an issue of continuous handshaking or whatever. My complete SWAG is fob stays “connected” to car fully in some way while driving. I don’t think it should act this way. It should be detected to start car and walking away if proximity is active. Otherwise, no need to check for it while driving - car isn’t going to stop if I throw the fob out the window at 65mph. It just won’t start next time…

2) Wireless charging still not working. They said I needed to bring it in to check, so that’s going on my list but not a priority.

Maybe my center console has heard my prayers and heeded my warning that it can be replaced at any time if it continues to act up!
 
Jeffgtx said:
Here is the current method required to get in my car.

If it has only been locking and sitting for about 15 minutes: waive the keycard on teh b pillar until it unlocks.
If it has gone to sleep, i need to press the fob unlock button several times and then waive the keycard on the B pillar.

Also as i mentioned in another thread, if i plug in a device in teh center console to charge, i get a USB Device not supported message on the dash every 2 minutes for the entire drive.
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I hate to ask, but have you tried a fresh new battery for your fob? As I just posted, my recent battery lasted about 8-9 days (no, not 6/7, as my kids would say!).
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Have to redact this and can’t edit any more. I DO keep several extra batteries in my car as @9point81 and others have said they had issues.

As soon as I could, I changed my fob battery and it works perfectly. Should have tried that before my post. BUT..:

1) I changed the battery two weeks ago and fob wasn’t used for a week - so it died after one week of use - with the 3.3.1 car and fob firmware updates. Others have commented on this issue. My fob is kept very far from car (200’+), so can’t be an issue of continuous handshaking or whatever. My complete SWAG is fob stays “connected” to car fully in some way while driving. I don’t think it should act this way. It should be detected to start car and walking away if proximity is active. Otherwise, no need to check for it while driving - car isn’t going to stop if I throw the fob out the window at 65mph. It just won’t start next time…

2) Wireless charging still not working. They said I needed to bring it in to check, so that’s going on my list but not a priority.

Maybe my center console has heard my prayers and heeded my warning that it can be replaced at any time if it continues to act up!
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Occams Razor, the simplest explanation is usually correct. I’ve seen more than once a battery ship that was defective, I’ve tested them with volt meters. For the rest of the Gravity Issues though they follow Hickum’s Dictum: the thing can have as many damn complex problems as it wants.
 
Yeah I don’t mean to sound political, I was feeling generally angry with a portion of the country when I wrote that, but that part of the country really enjoys relishing in being yee-haw hold my beer Florida Man, so it’s not my fault my pattern recognition skills are intact.
 
prodolf said:
You guys are old (like me) I put in our first network with PC's but it was Novell and they were pretty solid at networking. Top-o-the-line work station was a HP386SX Processor with 1 MB of RAM and I thought we were really cooking with gas! They were $5,000 each! Had to load the OS and Windows from 5 1/4" floppies.....took forever!
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CNE 2.15c certified!!!
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Have to redact this and can’t edit any more. I DO keep several extra batteries in my car as @9point81 and others have said they had issues.

As soon as I could, I changed my fob battery and it works perfectly. Should have tried that before my post. BUT..:

1) I changed the battery two weeks ago and fob wasn’t used for a week - so it died after one week of use - with the 3.3.1 car and fob firmware updates. Others have commented on this issue. My fob is kept very far from car (200’+), so can’t be an issue of continuous handshaking or whatever. My complete SWAG is fob stays “connected” to car fully in some way while driving. I don’t think it should act this way. It should be detected to start car and walking away if proximity is active. Otherwise, no need to check for it while driving - car isn’t going to stop if I throw the fob out the window at 65mph. It just won’t start next time…

2) Wireless charging still not working. They said I needed to bring it in to check, so that’s going on my list but not a priority.

Maybe my center console has heard my prayers and heeded my warning that it can be replaced at any time if it continues to act up!
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I’m sorry, but having to replace batteries on a weekly basis in the fob means that the fob is essentially worthless. So if I go away on a week long trip, I am now going to have to teach the wife how to replace the fob batteries so that she can replace it prior using Gravity to come pick me up at the airport. A key fob should last at least 6 months and ideally over a year. Every fob I have had over past 20+ years had batteries that lasted 2+ years. After the 2+ years, my Mercedes will give me a low battery warning but will continue working for another month or more. Oh, and if for some reason I continue to ignore that warning and my fob totally dies, guess what, I have a second key fob that Mercedes was gracious enough to provide me. I know, I know; PaaK will solve all of this and we won’t have to rely the fobs in the future. But based on performance of the current key software team at Lucid, I would not expect PaaK for another 4-6 months and god knows how long after that until PaaK is reliable enough to rely on.

I know I am being doom and gloom here. But since joining this forum 8 months ago, reliable fob access has been my biggest worry. Many months ago when after reading about what a train wreck the AIr fob had been, I was assured by some key tenured members here that I had nothing to worry, as Gravity would abandon the Air key for a UWB key same (or similar) as BMW. Well, no sooner is Gravity released and there are a multitude of key issues being reported and it has become the number one topic on the Bugs/Issues thread. The 3.3.1 software release may have improved things somewhat, but it appears to be far from a total fix. Lucid still has a lot of work to do on this issue.
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Have to redact this and can’t edit any more. I DO keep several extra batteries in my car as @9point81 and others have said they had issues.

As soon as I could, I changed my fob battery and it works perfectly. Should have tried that before my post. BUT..:

1) I changed the battery two weeks ago and fob wasn’t used for a week - so it died after one week of use - with the 3.3.1 car and fob firmware updates. Others have commented on this issue. My fob is kept very far from car (200’+), so can’t be an issue of continuous handshaking or whatever. My complete SWAG is fob stays “connected” to car fully in some way while driving. I don’t think it should act this way. It should be detected to start car and walking away if proximity is active. Otherwise, no need to check for it while driving - car isn’t going to stop if I throw the fob out the window at 65mph. It just won’t start next time…

2) Wireless charging still not working. They said I needed to bring it in to check, so that’s going on my list but not a priority.

Maybe my center console has heard my prayers and heeded my warning that it can be replaced at any time if it continues to act up!
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Someone mentioned the SC saying the range on the remote has now dramatically increased after the update. Maybe it's also staying on too much and pinging the car and running dead? I dunno. I keep mine in a Faraday box, so I don't know if it helps but I guess I'll find out when I get back home next week.
 
Jeffgtx said:
...

Also as i mentioned in another thread, if i plug in a device in teh center console to charge, i get a USB Device not supported message on the dash every 2 minutes for the entire drive.
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Ugh, I see that exact same behavior from my Ram 2500 pickup truck. It results in me trying hard to avoid using the built in USB ports for charging devices. I get why it would say that the first time the device is plugged in. But it's mysterious to me how a software engineer could have thought that they should harass you with endless warning messages about it.
 
I’m skeptical of the issue with teh fob being the range. If “shaking” it is teh wake up suggestion, that suggests to me that there is an accelerometer inside that is in charge of detecting motion to wake the fob to do its proximity work. So, likely that is why there is firmware involved because the accelerometer is either not waking up the fob as desired, or it is keeping it awake way too much and draining the battery.

A modem accelerometer draws mere micro amps when it is in motion detection mode and when it detects motion and wakes up, it triggers the fob to wake up and then go into full power mode. When it is sitting on your kitchen counter, it should be asleep waiting to detect the picking up of the fob and then check to see if it is near the car. IT shouldn’t be checking for probity when it is not in motion.
 
Bdr100 said:
So, since you just picked your car up this weekend, I would assume that it had been updated to 3.3.1 and fob firmware also updated. I guess our hope that these updates would put the fob unreliability issues to rest is not a reality.
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I would not assume that. They should double check that the fob update happened.
 
hmp10 said:
It may be that Lucid is seeing something in the logs that tells them the issue is in the rear drive unit. It's one of the reasons I suspect the culprit may be in the software rather than in the hardware of the drive units, as the software can send different directions to identical drive units, and no one here has reported a front drive unit issue.
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Wait...didn't @BiruBoy11 report a FDU replacement on here?
 
hwy17er said:
Wait...didn't @BiruBoy11 report a FDU replacement on here?
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You're right. I forgot his was a front drive unit. He also had the same symptoms as ours: speed limited to 50mph. He reported that it was the inverter that failed in his unit. I haven't heard yet what the failure was in our rear drive unit. However, we both have Dreams which use the same motor at both ends, thus, I assume, the same inverters.
 
9point81 said:
Someone mentioned the SC saying the range on the remote has now dramatically increased after the update. Maybe it's also staying on too much and pinging the car and running dead? I dunno. I keep mine in a Faraday box, so I don't know if it helps but I guess I'll find out when I get back home next week.
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The tech at my local sc told me about the greater range yesterday and you're exactly right about the pinging.
The tech said a Faraday pouch would help with the car recognizing the fob too much. I forgot to mention that in my post yesterday.

I too, already use a Faraday pouch.
 
On the bright side since reporting charging issues with EA DC fast chargers after the 3.3.1 OTA. This morning I had a seamless charging experience! Plugged in, authenticated, lights turned green and laid down 200 miles of range in 31 minutes. I can live with that.
 
Jeffgtx said:
I’m skeptical of the issue with teh fob being the range. If “shaking” it is teh wake up suggestion, that suggests to me that there is an accelerometer inside that is in charge of detecting motion to wake the fob to do its proximity work. So, likely that is why there is firmware involved because the accelerometer is either not waking up the fob as desired, or it is keeping it awake way too much and draining the battery.

A modem accelerometer draws mere micro amps when it is in motion detection mode and when it detects motion and wakes up, it triggers the fob to wake up and then go into full power mode. When it is sitting on your kitchen counter, it should be asleep waiting to detect the picking up of the fob and then check to see if it is near the car. IT shouldn’t be checking for probity when it is not in motion.
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Yeah this is a good point. If you have to shake a fob to wake it up (which in my opinion is a bad design because you’re going to have fobs not waking up all the time and all these reports of trouble as we are seeing here), then it shouldn’t be continually waking up the car 50 feet away if it’s stationary and draining the fob battery, but it sounds like it is? I love Lucid and am excited to get my Gravity but this whole utterly confusing and malfunctioning approach to just getting into the damn car and driving it is aggravating. Particularly since Lucid assured everyone they made it better than the Air’s fob system, but thus far have not. Or have made it better….if it works.

So I think this is how it “works”?
1. Walk up to car with fob, maybe door handles present themselves.
2. If door handles don’t present, shake fob to wake it up.
3. Get into the car and try to drive it. It may not recognize the fob and let you drive.
4. If these fail try keycard instead.
5. If that doesn’t work, turn off passive entry and manually press in door handles or press unlock on fob, then get into car and see if it will actually recognize fob and let you drive. (I’ll probably do this one just as it seems like it results in the least failures?)
6. Drive car and periodically get key not detected alerts because either battery is low but car doesn’t alert you that it’s low like other cars, or because you’re not activating the accelerometer in the fob to let the car know that yes the fob you detected when you let me drive is still in fact in the car while driving.

I try very hard not to be armchair CEO, I know these things can be very difficult to implement so of course I give benefit of the doubt. But when a new customer gets a new car and you are making them learn repeatedly just how hard it is to make these things work, that is bad. It’s not quite the disaster of the Volvo EX90 (see InsideEVs recent article of their entry system failures being even worse than Gravity), but I just hope this actually gets fixed before some of these sites run a piece on the Gravity like they just did on the EX90. The Gravity is an incredible and groundbreaking vehicle and it bums me out those accomplishments are being diminished by erratic software and vehicle entry systems.
 
BUT let me add the benefit of the doubt component. Has ANYONE who has gotten the new update AND had service update the Keyfob continued to have erratic fob behavior for vehicle entry, or fob errors when driving? Maybe 3.3.1 + service visit to fix fob is the definitive fix (unless the center console wiring issue is the problem?).
 
Bunnylebowski said:
BUT let me add the benefit of the doubt component. Has ANYONE who has gotten the new update AND had service update the Keyfob continued to have erratic fob behavior for vehicle entry, or fob errors when driving? Maybe 3.3.1 + service visit to fix fob is the definitive fix (unless the center console wiring issue is the problem?).
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Since I’ve had 3.3.1 and fob firmware update, the only fob issues I’ve had are:

1) Battery died - replaced it and it works fine

2) Key not detected - happens every now and then while driving. I shake it and it goes away. This is weird, but it’s not really a big deal to me. Fob shouldn’t be communicating with car while you drive, as I’ve mentioned before.
 
PSA for folks with wireless charging issues:

The new iOS 26 has a known wireless charging issue for certain iPhones. When my phone wouldn’t charge wirelessly in the car, I noticed it stopped working on my nightstand charger and my wife’s stopped about the same time.

Easy fix - have to reset your iPhone. Wireless charging now works fine for me in car and at home.

So, my center console IS behaving but for the ever consistent blocking of GPS and cell signal if my phone is near it…not a huge issue for now.
 
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