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massive loud knock from front left suspension

Joelaron

Joelaron

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2025 Lucid Air GT
anyone ever have what sounds like a metal "CLUNK" from the front suspension/linkage when going over small bumps at any speed? Even going over the lane divider reflectors can cause the sound to happen.

SC just said they can't get the car looked until MID MAY(!). hoping that anyone else with the same issue can let me know what it was to see if I should stop driving the car before the wheels fall off. ;)

*sad that things have only gotten worse for the service centers. I assumed that when they opened the San Jose SC, that Millbrae would ease up.. but that is clearly not the case. Looking to return my lease early at this point. Sorry Lucid.. i tried.
 
Yes I have that exact issue. Its a loose sway bar end link that apparently they can't fix. Mine has been in the shop for 3 weeks and that is one of the recurring issues. First their techs tried to say I was "running over sewer caps..." yeah nonsense.

It's a loose suspenion piece, known issue.

They just laid off a bunch of service people, hence the delays.
 
That could be a lot of things but if it’s a loose sway bar end link as socktucker has mentioned that is certainly something to be concerned about. Handling would certainly be compromised and could become dangerous especially at higher speeds. 2 months out for service for a potential emergency item like this is inexcusable. If it were me I’d have a local independent shop confirm the issue. If it is a loose sway bar or any other compromised suspension component I wouldn’t drive the car and would demand a loaner or a rental asap.
It’s really something to watch a company destroy itself in realtime. Cuts to an already challenged frontline customer service is a sign of desperation, poor management or both.
 
This is such a known issue that when I took my ‘25 Air Touring in for its 1-yr service, it was a standing TSC order for them to “torque the front sway bar end links to spec”—though I’d obviously heard of this issue on the forum, it hadn’t happened to me, so hadn’t asked them to check. (They also proactively completed standing TSCs to check rear seat crossmember bolts, and proper installation of rear brake hoses).

Given how many forum posters have reported this as ongoing trouble (especially prior to the TSC being added to the action list for all service visits), it seems likely they haven’t seen any catastrophic failures, so don’t consider it an emergency repair. May is likely fine. (on a safety/practical level that is….2 month waits for simple service is never fine!)

See also this recent thread, though to act on it you’d want to be sure you or the mechanic actually knew how tight it “should” be:

Guide- For when you hear a clunk from front suspension going over bumps in an Air

I figured i would post this so others can know what exactly needs to be tightened on an Air when a dreaded clunking or metal clanking sound starts occurring when going over bumps. What you'll need: A good Jack - Make sure the jack is rated for the weight of the vehicle Jack stands or a second...
lucidowners.com lucidowners.com
 
jedwin said:
This is such a known issue that when I took my ‘25 Air Touring in for its 1-yr service, it was a standing TSC order for them to “torque the front sway bar end links to spec”—though I’d obviously heard of this issue on the forum, it hadn’t happened to me, so hadn’t asked them to check. (They also proactively completed standing TSCs to check rear seat crossmember bolts, and proper installation of rear brake hoses).

Given how many forum posters have reported this as ongoing trouble (especially prior to the TSC being added to the action list for all service visits), it seems likely they haven’t seen any catastrophic failures, so don’t consider it an emergency repair. May is likely fine. (on a safety/practical level that is….2 month waits for simple service is never fine!)

See also this recent thread, though to act on it you’d want to be sure you or the mechanic actually knew how tight it “should” be:

Guide- For when you hear a clunk from front suspension going over bumps in an Air

I figured i would post this so others can know what exactly needs to be tightened on an Air when a dreaded clunking or metal clanking sound starts occurring when going over bumps. What you'll need: A good Jack - Make sure the jack is rated for the weight of the vehicle Jack stands or a second...
lucidowners.com lucidowners.com
Click to expand...
I had a similar “clunk over small bumps” on another car, and it did end up being a loose sway bar end link, so what others are saying lines up.
If it’s that, it’s usually not an immediate “wheel falling off” situation, but it can affect handling and will definitely get worse if ignored. Personally, I wouldn’t wait until May without at least checking it.
If you’re comfortable, you could:
  • Visually inspect the end links for play
  • Or better, have a local shop quickly check/retorque them (should be a quick job)
Best case, it’s just loose hardware and a 10-minute fix. Worst case, at least you’ll know early and can push Lucid harder for priority service or a loaner.
 
I agree with others. I just had a similar issue that was fixed by the mobile tech yesterday.
 
Sorry to chimes in so late on that topic, but it happen to me last fall and my sc find and fix that problem and the clunk never came back since. Here is a partial copy of work order I received with my annual inpection. Hope this could help.

"As reported by the client, when entering parking entrance (mostly when turning right), a knock-type noise is heard from the front suspension.
DIAGNOSIS,
1. At first, I road tested the vehicle and did not duplicate the concern,
2. A second attempt was performed with the customer and was yet again unable to reproduce the noise,
3. Finally after a third attempt, I managed to hear the noise and confirm the knock-type noise coming from the front end of the vehicle (floor)
REPAIR;
- The frunk tub was removed to inspect the sway bar bushing bracket (for any motion) and confirmed even though torqued to specification, the bracket would
have a lateral play.
- I removed the bushing bracket securing bolts and noted the ends are ''mushroomed'', as an indicator that they hit somewhere in the subframe and preventing
them from reaching full mating torquing values.
- Considering there are no replacement part for this, I removed an excess of about 2-3 mm from the bolt, applied loctite and torqued the bolts to manufacturing
specifications.
- Tested the vehicle on the road and confirmed no more noise was present.
No further action is required at this time"
 
This is interesting copy of word order. Does that mean the bolts are too long and they need to be shaved off or different thicker washer applied, so the bolt can securely tighten the sway bar bushing bracket.
I am having annoying knock/clunk when going over small bumps or curbs. More pronounced when turning and hitting with one wheel first at angle rather than both at the same time. That all points in my opinion to the sway bar. Either sway bar links or bushing bracket or both.
 
I had the same issue and suspected that bolt being loose based on the discussions here. My serviceman came to my office and in 20mins it was fixed: the bolt needed tightening, that’s all. Glad it didn’t need to go in to the shop.
 
ME2U said:
Considering there are no replacement part for this, I removed an excess of about 2-3 mm from the bolt, applied loctite and torqued the bolts to manufacturing
specifications.
Click to expand...
wtf?!?

THEY SHAVED IT DOWN WITH A GRINDER AND REUSED A TORQUE SPECCED SUSPENSION BOLT?!?!?

Holy shit lol
 
suchluke said:
This is interesting copy of word order. Does that mean the bolts are too long and they need to be shaved off or different thicker washer applied, so the bolt can securely tighten the sway bar bushing bracket.
I am having annoying knock/clunk when going over small bumps or curbs. More pronounced when turning and hitting with one wheel first at angle rather than both at the same time. That all points in my opinion to the sway bar. Either sway bar links or bushing bracket or both.
Click to expand...
Yes the bolt need to be shaved off because the tip touches the inner part of frame box (sub-frame?) and the torque is applied to the frame (useless) instead of the bracket. That's how I understand the explanation the mechanic gave me. Why he didn't use washers, I don't know and sadly I didn't ask him, but it's probably a good reason. I didn't see the whole job but it could be clearance with other pieces, metal disparity (aluminum vs iron) and torque spec rules I don't know but it works ! I agree you seem to have both problems, link and bracket. The link part is almost continuous rattle on uneven road, the bracket becoming loose (even when on specified torque) snap in a pretty loud clunk when the swaybar "twist" as the wheels are turned and one is going up while the other goes down like passing a curb while turning. For sure don't wait too long or it could become expensive !
Good luck.
 
Green G said:
I had the same issue and suspected that bolt being loose based on the discussions here. My serviceman came to my office and in 20mins it was fixed: the bolt needed tightening, that’s all. Glad it didn’t need to go in to the shop.
Click to expand...
My AT is from 2024 and the bolts were too long. Maybe yours is a late model and have shorter bolt if Lucid ever replace them on the assembly line...
If not you will probably have to return in a couple months or so depending on mileage and road condition. Could also be a bad batch of bolts they received and installed... quality control, bad supplier etc, being the trhead those days. 😉
 
Joelaron said:
anyone ever have what sounds like a metal "CLUNK" from the front suspension/linkage when going over small bumps at any speed? Even going over the lane divider reflectors can cause the sound to happen.

SC just said they can't get the car looked until MID MAY(!). hoping that anyone else with the same issue can let me know what it was to see if I should stop driving the car before the wheels fall off. ;)

*sad that things have only gotten worse for the service centers. I assumed that when they opened the San Jose SC, that Millbrae would ease up.. but that is clearly not the case. Looking to return my lease early at this point. Sorry Lucid.. i tried.
Click to expand...
Following up on this. My car went into service Friday for this same issue. Front left end and exactly as you described, I can replicate the noise going over those center lane reflectors, every time. The tech rode with me and heard it as well. However, I was informed that they isolated the issue to the front left suspension damper. Will see what the final verdict is on Monday.
 
alee said:
Following up on this. My car went into service Friday for this same issue. Front left end and exactly as you described, I can replicate the noise going over those center lane reflectors, every time. The tech rode with me and heard it as well. However, I was informed that they isolated the issue to the front left suspension damper. Will see what the final verdict is on Monday.
Click to expand...
They’re telling me they can’t recreate it, so they’ll have to ship the car back to me, I record a video and send to them, then ship the car back I guess. It’s literally the exact same sound you all are having. Very frustrating.

Definitely recommend recording the noise.
 
socktucker said:
They’re telling me they can’t recreate it, so they’ll have to ship the car back to me, I record a video and send to them, then ship the car back I guess. It’s literally the exact same sound you all are having. Very frustrating.

Definitely recommend recording the noise.
Click to expand...
Are you posting with multiple profiles?
 
Update: I returned my loaner and received my vehicle with a fix to the clunking sound. It turned out to be the front left wheel bearing.

Hats off to the Scottsdale service center. From my invoice, I can see the detailed notes. The techs went through extensive testing to narrow this down, including front suspension and subframe torque check, attaching “chassis ears” to listen digitally during test drives, and a Teams call to engineering.

This prompted a few replacement parts: Front left shock/spring assembly, tested, noise still present. Front left brake pad tension springs were weak. Replaced, tested, noise still present. Inspected the entire front end with compressed air and a boroscope to check for anything loose, including front speaker cavities. Nothing found.

Notes don’t say what led to the final fix of the replacement front left wheel bearing, but I’m impressed at the lengths the team went through to find and resolve the issue.

After receiving the car, I can confirm no more clunking noise AND the front end feels much tighter and more responsive. I wondered why the car had a tendency to wallow a little when entering a corner. No longer - The strut/spring may have been the issue.

With the backlog, it took four weeks in service - car went into the service bay after the 2nd week - but I had a AGT loaner so I was not bothered by the time at all. I’m thankful they found a fix, all covered under warranty.

Hope this helps anyone else with this same issue.
 
Wow, another good one to know. Thanks for the update. 👍
 
Joelaron said:
anyone ever have what sounds like a metal "CLUNK" from the front suspension/linkage when going over small bumps at any speed? Even going over the lane divider reflectors can cause the sound to happen.

SC just said they can't get the car looked until MID MAY(!). hoping that anyone else with the same issue can let me know what it was to see if I should stop driving the car before the wheels fall off. ;)

*sad that things have only gotten worse for the service centers. I assumed that when they opened the San Jose SC, that Millbrae would ease up.. but that is clearly not the case. Looking to return my lease early at this point. Sorry Lucid.. i tried.
Click to expand...
I had that same experience and the dealer told me that it was common and it was my sway bar end links, so I took it to my mechanic and he torqued the bolts and it's fine it took all of 30 mins to fix
 
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