Lucid Home Charging Station - won't connect to internet

[DeaneG]

Yeah that sounds about right

It'd be cool if Lucid would at least fix the LCHCS home page units typo, and that problem with 192.168.1.x networks. At least show it's still cared about.

 

[MacBain00]

Great question. This same circuit has supported an EVSE on a NEMA 14-50 plug for the past 10+ years. I swapped out the plug and now have the Lucid unit hardwired in the same spot.

50A breaker, 6AWG wiring, dip switches set for 40A. I even tried setting the DIP switches at the 32 A setting, just to see if I had misread up for down. Same result - 12 A.

I think you need to check from the breaker and the unit itself. Make sure you get 50A at the breaker. Then make sure the unit itself is receiving 50A at the lugs. Then keep moving forward until you eliminate it at the unit itself. It's possible you have a bad unit, but I haven't seen posts like that on the forums.

Are you using the proper lugs on the ends of the wires to connect to the charger? If you did a simple replace of the existing wires of the plug to the charger, maybe you need to do a new cut/strip/connector.

 

[geosynch]

I think you need to check from the breaker and the unit itself. Make sure you get 50A at the breaker. Then make sure the unit itself is receiving 50A at the lugs. Then keep moving forward until you eliminate it at the unit itself. It's possible you have a bad unit, but I haven't seen posts like that on the forums.

Are you using the proper lugs on the ends of the wires to connect to the charger? If you did a simple replace of the existing wires of the plug to the charger, maybe you need to do a new cut/strip/connector.

I have a hydraulic crimper from when I did a Miata EV conversion in my garage. I crimped on pure copper lugs (tinned) for 6AWG wire.

But it can only be the unit itself or the installation. As soon as I get the motivation to open the unit back up, I'll verify the open circuit voltage at the lugs and also under a 12A load. If there is any voltage drop at all, then we will have our problem (likely a bad crimp).

 

[Pragmatic]

Unless there is high resistance on the supplyside I would think the problem is the charger.

Make sure the charger is set to 40 amp, connect the car at a low state of charge and wait. After charging for an hour or more use a non-contact thermometer to check temperatures of the breakers, the wiring, the ESVE connections. The one that is hot (or very warm) is what you should check for issues first.

 

[geosynch]

Unless there is high resistance on the supplyside I would think the problem is the charger.

Make sure the charger is set to 40 amp, connect the car at a low state of charge and wait. After charging for an hour or more use a non-contact thermometer to check temperatures of the breakers, the wiring, the ESVE connections. The one that is hot (or very warm) is what you should check for issues first.

I actually don't have a non-contact thermometer, but I could use this to justify getting one.

Here is a photo of the type of lug I'm using. The bolt hole is just the right size for what the contact block uses, and there is no room for a wider lug. In other words, I can't use a bigger lug.

 

[DeaneG]

I swear I searched for similar!

See @nadler1ny 's comment:

N

Post in thread 'Finally got WiFi working ... kind of'

Wednesday at 2:47 PM

I just had my lucid charger installed. I can't seem to get past step 3 which says" once your laptop is connected to the wi-fi network of the charging station, open your preferred web browser, enter the station's ip address 192.168.5.1"
I get connection refused each time. I've shut the breaker off numerous times and started the process over but i get the same error.
Since other have had this issue, any fixes other than ethernet which i don't have available?

• nadler1ny

 

[Pragmatic]

Depending on how comfortable you are around live power leads, you could charge for an hour or so and while charging get a voltage reading at the following locations:
Power into breaker panel
Outlet of 50amp breaker
Inlet to EVSE

The one with the largest drop is your likely problem area. I believe the EVSE measures voltage before charging begins and measures the voltage drop as current is increased. Too large a drop and the EVSE cuts the current to limit the heat generated by the high resistance.