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They all perform the same function. The differences lie in voltage and current ratings (you want 1000V and 500A), conductor materials and sizing, housing materials and design, the presence, function and robustness of the required latches and their charging interlock switches, efficacy of...

I think 60/48A is a great minimum. If you never, ever forget to plug your EV in at night, then 50/40A is enough. I'm not that reliable.

All NACS to CCS adapters can only be used for DC fast charging (Supercharger, etc). All NACS to J1772 adapters can only be used for AC slow charging (home or hotel destination charger, etc). You need both adapters for the most flexible road trip experience. Current V4 supercharger stalls are...

Is it different from the Air's? My AGT's lane departure wind-up buzzer is out of character with the rest of the car.

Wonderful to read, thanks for posting! BTW EA just finished "upgrading legacy hardware" at Kettleman. Sounds like they succeeded.

I think it's good that you posted, as we can't automatically assume it's the car software. My own guess is that ordinary thermal cycling on your oven-rated receptacle has loosened one of the wire connections enough to start causing a problem. There's enough copper around that when the...

The question: is it a bug, or a feature?

2026's coming NACS EX90 and Polestar 3 are said to be able to charge at 600 amps at a capable NACS station. We'll see if, and how much, difference that makes.

I'm interested.

That 16/16 A indicates that the mobile cable is telling the car that the car may only pull 16 amps from the charging cable (the bottom 16 amp numerals), and that the car is doing so (the top 16 amp numerals). The mobile charging cable is throttling the charge rate to 16 amps, likely because the...

You don't need it. RAN charging stations are currently all CCS.

As does every capable 400V EV, limited by CCS1's 500 amp maximum current multiplied by the pack voltage.

A small and unrelated point - a dehumidifier will only make animals that sweat or pant more comfortable. It doesn't help to cool electronics. A fan could help to move charging-related excess heat from the general area of the car, but this isn't likely to make a significant difference.

+1, you'll never hear me say "I wish my car charged slower"!

Yes, once with a lot of fluid to dilute and mop up the VOCs on the glass. And again with a clean cloth and little cleaner (solvent) to get the last bit. I use a triangle thing from Invisible glass on the second pass inside the windshield. You can throw a fresh microfiber towel over it if needed.

Interior plastics and leather in all cars outgas with time and temperature, leaving a thin film of organic compounds on the inside of the windows.

After three years reading this forum, it's clearly a very rare issue. Lucid Air has its quirks but is unbeatable for what it is IMO.

I use plenty of Invisible Glass with a paper towel, scrub and wipe completely dry with a fresh paper towel. Then go again with a light spritz of the same and a lint free microfiber towel.

Many drivers seem to be constantly easing on and off the accelerator on the freeway to maintain speed. Some in this forum have even called the power/charge indicator dial a "metronome" because it is always moving back and forth. It's these people that will notice an efficiency decrease with...

Regeneration helps efficiency in stop-and go driving, but generally reduces efficiency slightly for most drivers at steady freeway speeds.