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I think we are all on the same page now. The car accurately assesses the battery usage your CURRENT drive will take using your mi/kWh on that drive. It does NOT, however, use the mi/kWh of your current drive in calculating how many miles of range you will have at your destination. It appears...

Yes, using Lucid nav

Guess we're going to have to disagree on your second point. I believe that the car uses your real world driving data to accurately estimate your SOC % at your destination. But, I believe it then uses the EPA rated mi/kWh to calculate your estimated remaining range upon arrival. I believe this...

I think we're saying the same thing but from a slightly different perspective. I think the miles on arrival number is equivalent to the calculated SOC remaining in the battery (which is very accurate) times the EPA range for the car. So if you will arrive with 10% of the battery remaining and...

I don't think there's a way to have battery % on arrival show on the cockpit display, only the pilot panel like you said. Regarding the inaccuracy of the remaining miles, that calculation appears to still use EPA range estimates for the remaining battery and not the vehicle's recent mi/kWh...

At least yours is still under warranty!

I suppose I could try that. But I'm guessing you're on an iPhone which has the heated steering wheel control in the app. My Android app does not have that so I don't think it's related. I'm talking about pushing the button in the pilot panel which turns orange for a second and then goes back to off

I'm having the same problem with my heated steering wheel turning itself off a second or two after I turn it on. Anybody have a fix for this other than doing a air logo reset which worked for me to fix the problem the other day?

Defrost is fastest but takes a lot of battery

It's not a design flaw. You may not like it or be used to it. But that doesn't make it a design flaw.

I've had a problem in the past but nothing currently. Can you open and/or close it? Either manually or with the buttons in the car?

My solution is not ideal. But I took the battery out of the fob and carry them both in a Faraday bag (in my work backpack). So, if the mobile key doesn't work, I have that backup. Although, per @Bobby video, you can use the fob without a battery like the key card and then put in your PIN

I understand. My posts were for the benefit of other owners who, like me, were not expecting the hold charge at all. I said in my OP that it wasn't an actual charge implying that it would/should be released at some point

I didn't read anything that said there would be a hold placed on the card every time you charged. That's why I was surprised. I thought the only charge would occur if you incurred the idle fees. And I certainly didn't expect the $50

With all due respect, you don't know whether or not I was charged for all three of my recent charging sessions. So although maybe I should have been, I wasn't. My experience shows that it's inconsistent. That's what I was saying

Update... Apparently the $50 auth charge happens more than once but isn't consistent. I got it once yesterday but charged twice. And I just got it again today. 🤷‍♂️

Lol that's funny but might be before my time here. I moved to the area 20 years ago. And mostly listened to 97 Rock

Voice to text needs work

I'm sorry if this has been posted somewhere else. But I didn't see it if it was. So I'm starting a new thread to hopefully help other owners from having to deal with an unnecessary situation. I still have free charging with Electrify america. And just recently within the last month put a credit...