If you use one of the UL rated ones it should be okay: http://www.umc-j1772.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=99
For what it is worth I bought the 80A version of this one for $60 more even though most Tesla destination chargers seem to be 32A. If I am a hotel owner, my customers may like 3 x 32A chargers than a 1 X 80A.
The 80A does not appear to be UL rated: http://www.umc-j1772.com/index.php?...17&product_id=100&sort=p.sort_order&order=ASC
I see. It does seem very rugged and well put together though. I will use it and report back. I will be surprised if I actually find an 80A. If this is capable of 80A and I use it for 50A or less, it is more than OK.
None of the minis are UL rated.
Oh that is UL rated? I thought it was not. I have that one, broke its own ground pin housing inside my car’s charging port. I was able to get it out luckily. I sent it to TeslaTap and requested a refund, as it turns out using any of these adapters can void the warranty for the charge port/DC to DC converter and HV battery. TeslaTap instead ignored my request, took them days to even respond to my email, didn’t reimburse me return shipping costs and then sent me a replacement one, and kept my $ instead of refunding me. I’ll keep it in the car but only if my only option is either Tesla destination charger or get stranded. I would not recommend buying anything from them.
Does the connector not have to be UL rated? That’s only the handle and cable.
I assumed “handle” meant both connector and handle. Could be wrong tho.Does the connector not have to be UL rated? That’s only the handle and cable.
Those handles are off the shelf items and are generally UL rated. UL rating does not mean much as far the potential of ground pin breaking.
I agree. There are so many ways to pass UL. I am a EE with 2 MS degrees 1 in Power Electronics and instrumentation and one in VLSI design. My MS project was 3 has inverter and feedback loop for controf the speed of a DC motor and I worked for 2 years at a company collaborative with ABB to build electrnics to drive a massive electrical locomotive with 2 huge DC motors. For the high current, the contacts and the thickness of the conductor are very important. 240V is not really considered high voltage. I decided to get the 80A non UL rated version instead of the 50A UL rated one because the design is basically the same but a fatter conductor and contact heavy duty enough. Since this seems to be just a mechanical adapter, I was more concerned with getting a 50A UL rated non mini version and plug it to an 80A charger and face fire hazard.
Hari, is the 80 amp adapter you bought the one you had the problem with on your Pure?
Yes. I am not sure if the problem was because I tried using a Tesla home charger or will also be at any destination charger.
Been using the same one with no issues.
What was the problem? I was ready to buy the 80 amp unit after reading your previous posts. DO you recommend it, or did you have a problem. I just want this stuff to work safely. I don't mind spending a $100 more. Thanks
What happened was when I tried the Teslatap 80 with a Tesla home charger, Lucid said Preparing to Charge and was stuck. I have no idea if the problem was with Teslatap 40 vs 80 which look identical but higher current that I used or the Tesla home charger vs destination charger or a bug in my car's software. The pilot screen went blank and required a a reset to get it to work. I called Lucid Mobile service to come and check the logs and see what that happened.
