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Charging at a Tesla Station

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I'm thinking I should have an adapter for Tesla cahrging for when I'm on the road, odds are I would be using it a destination charger at a hotel, and with the occasional to use at a road station if needed. With all that does it make sense to get an 80 amp Tesla Tap or just opt for a 48 amp adapter and save $160.00 for dinner and drinks?



 
Be aware that the adapter is not compatible with Superchargers. But I keep a similar one in the car for use with destination chargers and another at home for use with my old Tesla charger.
 
I bought the 80 amp to be future proof for chargers up to 19.2 kW. I think the destination chargers can be up to 80 amp, but most are installed as 40 amp.
 
When buying on Amazon, always check the manufacturer's website fist, as prices are often lower. A person could buy anything at list price from the manufacturer, and put it for sale on Amazon for 30% more, and people would buy it.


I'd get the 80 amp version for safety. It seems to have been recently revised to solve the first version's problems with connector fit.
 
I’d avoid TeslaTap and get the Lectron one instead. I followed all TeslaTap instructions and it still got stuck in my charging port, ground pin housing broke off inside the charging port, and TeslaTap didn’t give me a refund which I requested and instead just sent me a replacement one. Lucid has told me any of these Tesla adapters can void your charge post/WunderBox/HV battery warranty. I’d only have the Lectron one for emergency if your only option is Tesla destination or stranded.
 
bunnylebowski said:
I’d avoid TeslaTap and get the Lectron one instead. I followed all TeslaTap instructions and it still got stuck in my charging port, ground pin housing broke off inside the charging port, and TeslaTap didn’t give me a refund which I requested and instead just sent me a replacement one. Lucid has told me any of these Tesla adapters can void your charge post/WunderBox/HV battery warranty. I’d only have the Lectron one for emergency if your only option is Tesla destination or stranded.
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I realize you had a problem with the broken pin on your TeslaTap, but I would NOT avoid the TeslaTap. I have two 80A minis and they work great. I also have a Lectron cable adapter and it works great too, although it doesn’t do 80A. I use the TeslaTap ones for home charging and keep one in my charger bag for traveling.
 
Alex said:
I realize you had a problem with the broken pin on your TeslaTap, but I would NOT avoid the TeslaTap. I have two 80A minis and they work great. I also have a Lectron cable adapter and it works great too, although it doesn’t do 80A. I use the TeslaTap ones for home charging and keep one in my charger bag for traveling.
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Yeah understandable, as it’s worked great for you and I understand anyone wanting one if they already have a Tesla home charger or there are ones at their job or whatever, but given two different sources at Lucid confirmed using it would void the warranty if you had a problem from it, I wouldn’t take the chance. I did not ask them about the Lectron adapter, it may be the same story with that one? I’m only going to use it in case of emergency….since I have no choice but to keep it since TeslaTap wouldn’t give me a refund.
 
bunnylebowski said:
Yeah understandable, as it’s worked great for you and I understand anyone wanting one if they already have a Tesla home charger or there are ones at their job or whatever, but given two different sources at Lucid confirmed using it would void the warranty if you had a problem from it, I wouldn’t take the chance. I did not ask them about the Lectron adapter, it may be the same story with that one? I’m only going to use it in case of emergency….since I have no choice but to keep it since TeslaTap wouldn’t give me a refund.
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My service tech told me "any" Tesla adapter could potentially void the warranty – at least that's the official company line.

But you have to realize that as far as the Lucid side of the equation goes, these adapters look and behave like J1772 plugs. Since there are no Level 2 EVSEs that can put out more than 80A and the Lucid can take 80A, there is no way to overpower the Lucid. The only problem can arise from the pilot signal not being transferred correctly and the car thinks there is no power (but there is) and someone unplugs the adapter and power keeps on flowing, resulting in arcing. The Pilot signal is wired straight through in these adapters and a failure would be caused by the Tesla EVSE, which can happen also in a standard J1772 EVSE.

So the voiding of the warranty can potentially happen with any J1772 EVSE, which leads me to believe that they are just trying to to covert their behind.
 
The issue I had was the connection on the Tesla side didn’t seem 100% solid even though it was plugged in as far as it would go, and the car itself did not see a charge but the Tesla destination charger intermittently lit up green like it was sending current but then would stop, then turn green again. It would not disconnect from the car, nor the Tesla end because of this. The only way to disconnect was to pull the emergency release in the Lucid, as I’d tried all methods TeslaTap listed of disconnecting (hold in button for 30 seconds and wait to hear release clicks, which it did, but would not release). I’ve used numerous other J1772 connectors and nothing ever decided to so firmly wedge itself in the car. The emergency release released it, but the ground pin housing broke off which is crazy because then you had a ground pin just sticking out into space uncovered waiting for you to touch it, although I doubt that would have been a problem since once it was disconnected from the car the Tesla charger no longer turned green indicating that it was connected and sending current. I was then able to release it from the Tesla plug, there was no arcing, but I can see how at bare minimum this could have damaged the charging port, or worse. So if I was Lucid yeah I’d void the warranty too if a problem happened from it! Maybe I can send mine to @Bad driver 20202 since it’s his job to break the car and see if he can find any issues haha.
 
Alex said:
I realize you had a problem with the broken pin on your TeslaTap, but I would NOT avoid the TeslaTap. I have two 80A minis and they work great. I also have a Lectron cable adapter and it works great too, although it doesn’t do 80A. I use the TeslaTap ones for home charging and keep one in my charger bag for traveling.
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Good news as my 80A Tesla Tap just came in yesterdays mail. Mine will only get used if I need it on a road trip.

bunnylebowski said:
Yeah understandable, as it’s worked great for you and I understand anyone wanting one if they already have a Tesla home charger or there are ones at their job or whatever, but given two different sources at Lucid confirmed using it would void the warranty if you had a problem from it, I wouldn’t take the chance. I did not ask them about the Lectron adapter, it may be the same story with that one? I’m only going to use it in case of emergency….since I have no choice but to keep it since TeslaTap wouldn’t give me a refund.
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I really don't see how it could cause a problem as it's a simple electrical and data connection.
 
FWIW, MB also doesn't sanction using Tesla adapters, so this may be the party line for all EVs.
It'd be interesting to learn the scientific basis behind this.
 
bunnylebowski said:
I’d avoid TeslaTap and get the Lectron one instead. I followed all TeslaTap instructions and it still got stuck in my charging port, ground pin housing broke off inside the charging port, and TeslaTap didn’t give me a refund which I requested and instead just sent me a replacement one. Lucid has told me any of these Tesla adapters can void your charge post/WunderBox/HV battery warranty. I’d only have the Lectron one for emergency if your only option is Tesla destination or stranded.
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Now I am seeing your post. Christopher Robinson cautioned me that even if Lectron works, it is not a good idea and it could void the warranty. I will try to return the Teslatap now. My car git stuck in preparing to charge and the Pilot planel was black and did not boot up. A serious reset sequence not to be done normally solved the problem.
 
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