Actual range:

[Bunnylebowski]

Here’s an example of a quick easy way to estimate remaining range (in a Grand Touring), until the car does it better. Look at your mi/kWh in trip information under settings, then, if your state of charge is 60%, just ask Alexa to do the math. Just say “hey Alexa what is 0.6 times 110” (GT battery pack is 112kw but use 110 in case of degradation). Then ask Alexa to multiply that number by whatever number your current mi/kWh is. Obviously your mi/kWh might vary, so you should do it after resetting the trip computer or using “since last charge” after you’ve driven for 30 miles or so, so it’s a more accurate representation of current mi/kWh. But I’ve found using Alexa to do the math quickly is pretty reliable.

 

[CraZ8]

I do the same although asking Alexa to do the math is a new wrinkle. It’s a brave new world for me to ask women to calculate for me AND give me directions. I’m probably in trouble with HR again aren’t I ?

 

[Bunnylebowski]

I do the same although asking Alexa to do the math is a new wrinkle. It’s a brave new world for me to ask women to calculate for me AND give me directions. I’m probably in trouble with HR again aren’t I ?

Haha. The main issue of course is Alexa doesn’t work right sometimes, making me think it was programmed by a man. I use the Irish male voice for Siri, so at least that way if it does something wrong, well obviously it’s because it’s drunk.

 

[Bus Driver]

Here’s an example of a quick easy way to estimate remaining range (in a Grand Touring), until the car does it better. Look at your mi/kWh in trip information under settings, then, if your state of charge is 60%, just ask Alexa to do the math. Just say “hey Alexa what is 0.6 times 110” (GT battery pack is 112kw but use 110 in case of degradation). Then ask Alexa to multiply that number by whatever number your current mi/kWh is. Obviously your mi/kWh might vary, so you should do it after resetting the trip computer or using “since last charge” after you’ve driven for 30 miles or so, so it’s a more accurate representation of current mi/kWh. But I’ve found using Alexa to do the math quickly is pretty reliable.

Speaking of degradation, @Bunnylebowski, do you know of any site or resource where Lucid Air degradation rates are being tracked?

Charging my Air GT to 90% every week prior to driving to work still shows 467 miles, the same number as when I first charged the car to 90% several months ago. I don’t believe it. I believe Lucid’s software isn’t refined enough yet to show miles available, after accounting for degradation.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

Speaking of degradation, @Bunnylebowski, do you know of any site or resource where Lucid Air degradation rates are being tracked?

Charging my Air GT to 90% every week prior to driving to work still shows 467 miles, the same number as when I first charged the car to 90% several months ago. I don’t believe it. I believe Lucid’s software isn’t refined enough yet to show miles available, after accounting for degradation.

I’ve heard that most degradation happens early on, so your battery might actually be 110 or 109kw instead of 112, but I don’t know if that’s accurate. The only way to tell is to drive the car from 100% SOC down to zero SOC% and see the total kW used, which you shouldn’t do.

 

[Halodde]

Speaking of degradation, @Bunnylebowski, do you know of any site or resource where Lucid Air degradation rates are being tracked?

Charging my Air GT to 90% every week prior to driving to work still shows 467 miles, the same number as when I first charged the car to 90% several months ago. I don’t believe it. I believe Lucid’s software isn’t refined enough yet to show miles available, after accounting for degradation.

FWIW, and that may not be much because I literally got my car yesterday, the guy doing my walkthrough was really smart and helpful. I asked him about this. He said that the range remaining doesn't "learn" your driving habits. Ever. It is simply arithmetic multiplying % charge by the EPA range estimate. So, my guess is that if your battery degrades by 50% but it still has as much charge as it can handle (100%), it *may* still display the max EPA range for your vehicle. Just guessing at that last part obviously.

 

[pjdcorp]

Haha. The main issue of course is Alexa doesn’t work right sometimes, making me think it was programmed by a man. I use the Irish male voice for Siri, so at least that way if it does something wrong, well obviously it’s because it’s drunk.

Easy there boyo. As a first generation mic from NY I resemble, er I mean resent, that remark

 

[Bus Driver]

I’ve heard that most degradation happens early on, so your battery might actually be 110 or 109kw instead of 112, but I don’t know if that’s accurate. The only way to tell is to drive the car from 100% SOC down to zero SOC% and see the total kW used, which you shouldn’t do.

In my experience with Teslas (forgive me for always bringing up Teslas), that is indeed the case. The greatest degradation happens within the first year. Collectively our Teslas now are about five to six years old. They all experienced their greatest loss of range within the first two to three years and 50,000 miles. We’ve lost 9% to 10% of our original range. Historically, and from what the Tesla forums and Tesla apps have been tracking, we can expect battery degradation to be very incremental, especially after the 100,000 mile mark, probably less than 1% loss per year.

But that’s all Tesla. I’m waiting for more data points to be produced to see how Lucid batteries fare over the long haul. Maybe in time app developers will develop tools that can track things like this for Lucids. Right now, ten years since the first Model S was sold, the Tesla universe is replete with apps developed indepently - TeslaFi,TezLab, Tesla Stats, Tessie, etc, etc, etc…

Finally, you’re correct. Running the battery down from 100% to 0% is NOT a good idea, especially when you want to preserve your battery.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

Easy there boyo. As a first generation mic from NY I resemble, er I mean resent, that remark

My wife is 50% Irish (dad was from Ireland, mom from Korea) so yeah she resembles it also haha.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

My FIL is obsessed with his German sirname.
I told him I went on Ancestry and discovered I was a direct decedent of Adam and Eve.
Game.
Set.
Match.

 

[joec]

My wife is 50% Irish (dad was from Ireland, mom from Korea) so yeah she resembles it also haha.

Half a paddy here myself, though most people don't guess it from the very Polish surname.

As a friend in Dublin likes to kid, I must hail from the world-famous Cieplinski clan in Donegal.

 

[Bus Driver]

FWIW, and that may not be much because I literally got my car yesterday, the guy doing my walkthrough was really smart and helpful. I asked him about this. He said that the range remaining doesn't "learn" your driving habits. Ever. It is simply arithmetic multiplying % charge by the EPA range estimate. So, my guess is that if your battery degrades by 50% but it still has as much charge as it can handle (100%), it *may* still display the max EPA range for your vehicle. Just guessing at that last part obviously.

That just may be the case with Lucids. I wish I could find out for certain.

Again, bringing up my Tesla ownership experience, early indications of battery degradation happening almost from the start of ownership could be seen when your car finished charging. For example the first few times we charged our car to 100%, estimated range came right at Tesla’s advertised spec - 295 miles. It stayed at that number for the next few times we charged at a 100%.

Within a few weeks however, that number started its inexorable slide downward. Quickly at first, with estimated miles dropping to 280 within the first year, and then more incrementally after that. Coming up on five years and 85,000 miles later, that same Tesla registers the same estimated range at 100% that it has for almost a year - 268 miles. In other words the degradation rate has stabilised to a more gradual, almost imperceptible level.

I’m surmising that since their battery chemistry is very similar (lithium ion), Lucid batteries will degrade in the same manner that Tesla batteries do, with degradation and loss of range happening most dramatically within the first few years and 50,000 miles of ownership, and tapering off to a more gradual rate after that.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

If my battery loses 50% of it's capacity ... my Lucid will still outlast my bladder....in freezing temps...going uphill...against a headwind.