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Silly iPhone doing a long exposure because it's dark. Caught me in between speeds. Also I don't know if you've noticed, but the windshield washer fluid sensor is just wrong. It must be a float switch, because the warning goes off when I take a hard turn. It's also been warning for about a month...

Oops, took a picture and then forgot to upload it. Here: Where the solid white arc on the left stops is the maximum amount of power regen will accept. If you keep the needle within the solid area regen should feel normal. If you try to slow down more quickly than that, you need your friction...

Sometimes Lucid techs are wrong too. The fob definitely does work this way, I have tried it (with the battery removed), and Bobby's youtube channel has a video demonstrating it. It's just fiddly. You really have to hold it in exactly the right spot, and sometimes try a few times. There is an...

I'll take a picture tonight if somebody else doesn't beat me to it. To be clear though, despite all that I said, I also find it a little unsettling every time it happens and wish we had blended braking to make the behavior consistent. All these warnings and gauges and techniques make it better...

It will tell you when regen is limited due to cold as well, though only past a certain threshold. If you look at the Charge/Power meter on your dash, it has a (admittedly very discrete) white arc starting at the top center and curving towards the bottom left. That shows at what point regen will...

My car is a lease, I have neither ceramic nor PPF. I had no whistle for over a year, then it just showed up one day. No idea what changed, but it wasn't any kind of coating or film.

Nope, not missing it, Air does not have one. Gravity does. Air has the 15A/12VDC port in the trunk, you can hook up an inverter to that if you need to power some small AC devices.

What you're describing is normal for low temperature or high state of charge. It's not that it switches from low to high after 2-3 seconds. The battery charger is accepting a relatively constant amount of power from the motors whether you're at 80mph or 10mph, which feels like a deceleration...

Yup I have tried that as well. I've checked the card with a fancy NFC reader which had no issues with it, so I'd say if anything it's either the car or the user.

Haha, I like the car enough that I almost feel bad complaining about aspects of it. I certainly don't regret it. But even the things/people we love can be truly annoying at times. :p

UWB is being implemented in cars now, it's just new and automotive design is slow. Speculation is that's what Gravity will use. You can do this by disabling proximity unlock. That requires pressing the door handle (and having a key on you) to unlock. It doesn't solve the speed issue for me...

I blame the Tesla center cap. Clearly it's the saboteur.

iPhone 13. I have done the complete reinstall in various forms (including following the steps in your CarPlay/mobile key video) multiple times, but it's been a couple months. When I have done that in the past it seems like it's working more reliably for a couple days, then goes back to the same...

For me at this point the fob and mobile key perform about the same, and neither is good. I'd agree that they work as expected at most about 1/4 times. The range is not good for either, which also doesn't help. I was leaving a store with my girlfriend who drove separately, it had started pouring...

Not to my insurance company, who is going to use it to justify either higher rates or denying coverage. Read stories from people who have used hands-on auto insurance like this, or Tesla's. You go one mile an hour over the speed limit sometimes and you're penalized. You stop suddenly to avoid an...

15A / 180W according to the manual.

Carrying both fob and mobile key seems to be worse than either one, at least for some of us. Try tucking that fob in a faraday pouch. Assuming she's just holding onto it as a backup she can still take it out and use it if necessary. Both the fob and phone are talking to the same module in the...

You're right, I did not mean to imply that most cars with automatic climate control don't display that somewhere. Just: 1) That it hasn't usually been on a screen or on the dash, but rather a small 7-segment display. So saying "just do what everybody else has done" isn't quite valid? 2) That...

This sounds like one of those things that makes Bobby say "must be a really great car if this is what we're complaining about." The "every other car has it" thing is also weird to me. I don't think I've ever driven a car that had current temperature settings always displayed on the screen...

I think your "drive" and "reverse" just need to be title-case, "Drive" and "Reverse" - pretty sure it is case sensitive. Also, if you go to your automation and click TRACES, you can step through exactly what happened when it was last triggered to see why conditions are failing.