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Ask warrantee redo. #4, and 75 deg breaker (likely what you have) has ampacity 85 A. Next size breaker is allowed by code. This size is 90 A. If he set up the charger at 80 A, and your breaker is a 80 % breaker (very likely what you have), 125 % amp breaker is needed. This is 100 A breaker. The...

Perhaps Lucid dhcp isnt smart enough but picked an ip already in use or static. Quite a few low volume or cost devices may still only do static and where the subnet mask is only 255.255.255.0 but not changeable or even viewable by user. As an aside, you can have both wifi and lan (devices) with...

You could also have changed the subnet mask from what i think you must have had 255.255.255.0 to 255.255.252.0 (or for using the cidr notation /22). The latter spans, in your case, addresses 192.168.0.0 through 192.168.3.255. The mask 255.255.255.0 only spans / can only reach / can only talk to...

Forgot -- meant copper wire.

For 100 A breaker and ambient max 30°C, #3 wire is sufficient (but just about so) given the breaker is rated 75°C (many breakers are) and the wire is rated 75°C (most wires are, the commonly used THHN is typically rated 90°C). However, #3 is less commonly used and thus next size up, which is #2...

Yes ok residental. It says commercial because its higher amps than is typical for residential. In some years many people may want higher amps for residential just for convinience of fast charging. I have 200 amp service and ran 125 amp circuit to charger sub panel. My hot water tanks, furnace...

Yes agree, want to look more special for $170 (with sales tax). Also, think 170 is expensive since one major lure is the 819 HP that cant really be used unless you want tickets or hit the ditch and then theres the quality issues.

The Lucid HIL laboratory, assuming they must have one as it is standard in the vehicle industry, may not be sofisticated enough since substantial use of HIL catches most problems and early on and forward.

Yes, definately more than 6 likely 2. On the wire, it says CU (for copper) and then 600 V. Its smudged out but likely say #2 AWG. Its marked every so often along the wire. Im sure youre ok electricians seldom make awg mistakes.

Yes #6 is way too small

Thanks this is exactly what i was looking for but could find when i bought charge point. Ill buy clipper next time or if i want more amps. Im tired of "endless hours" of set up, reading manuals, and cycle power becsuse somthing didnt work.

Im doing 25 ft 150 amp cable, a small subpanel, one 14-50, one charge point, and a junction box to prepare for next bay over. Theyll come end on this month. I asked them to do t&m, so i dont know the cost. But guessing ~$3000, not including the charger.

No not at all. Its a little bit in the way for your hand when reaching buttons at the bottom part of the pilot and you have to reach from above or side but this would be inherent for and object of decent height in the holder.

Not so. Ive had many more years with stick than automatic. For stick and gentle uphill, you release the clutch gently, and not as not to stall the engine, and you dont roll backwards, and quickly move from brake to acc pedal to get going. On very step uphill, and having an object very close...

Thats exactly what happens and may lead to fender benders and not what youd expect and not how a gas car works. Try to parallel park with creep on a gentle slope let alone on a decent slope and you may hit something. The first time i tried creep was when backing out of the garage almost hitting...

Ill install a small subpanel in the garage fed by 150 a copper. And from there a 50 a cb to a 14-50 recepacla and a 70 a cb to a charge point flex home charger. This way i can use the 40 a charger cable that comes with car in case flex brakes. And im prepared for future. I could easily also add...

You may consider 150 amp copper or if you want to save a little 125 amp. If you plan to stay in the house for long and its as much as 30 m and you may get a 2nd ev or something else in the garage you mau need more than 100. Labor is about the same so only added cost for upsized material. Id use...

Sometimes you need to lift them up and scrape along the rubber by nails or scraper and on both sides of the rubber. To do this you need to lift the wiper arm and i cant find a way doing this because the hood is in the way.

How do you remove ice and snow frozen to the wiper blades or wiper blades frozen to the wind shield -- open the frunk and do it from tbere?

Thanks, intresting -- same date and likely fabricated within a few weeks of eachother. Now, i know what to expect, broken rear window next :).